Paver Patterns for Curved Walkways.

Mac-s Lawn & Snow

LawnSite Bronze Member
This was one we did last year. The kind of thing I am hoping to avoid. Had like 30-35 hours of cutting for a 328 square foot walkway.
Thats a lot of hours to cut that in. I'm guessing around 5-8 hours I could cut that when I had my 14" MK brick saw. That would include miters on the soldier course. It would probably rip those large rectangle the long way in about 20 to 25 seconds. I would try to demo or rent a bigger saw with enough power to see it it speeds thing up. They are no fun to move at that size
 

TPendagast

LawnSite Fanatic
I do a lot of things that are in pics that are previously pictured.
Over excavate
Lay out blocks in an angular way
Chalk in the curves.
Cut the curves
Pick up the excess block
 

Mudly

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
OH
I prefer to leave that as a budget decision if im cutting borders to fill gaps or just spacing them evenly and polying the gaps. If you dont think youre skilled with a hand saw on inside corners try a plunge router and stone bit. If you dont want to make that investment… a few tips. Pull your radiuses and use soap. Just score the tops of the pavers in place (like a 1/8 inch tops cut). Then never touch the business side of the cut again with a blade. That way you can f up all you want but the score is what every one sees. Watch both the front and back of the blade youll see how tight you can turn before you start hitting your score and need to start closer to the center or make relief cuts.
 
OP
Hayduke

Hayduke

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Oregon
Just score the tops of the pavers in place (like a 1/8 inch tops cut). Then never touch the business side of the cut again with a blade. That way you can f up all you want but the score is what every one sees. Watch both the front and back of the blade youll see how tight you can turn before you start hitting your score and need to start closer to the center or make relief cuts.
I'm not following you on this. Are you saying you just score the 1/8" deep and then split with a chisel? I don't think you are saying that but it is an intriguing idea. what does it mean " then never touch the business side of the cut again with a blade" ?

Thats a lot of hours to cut that in. I'm guessing around 5-8 hours I could cut that when I had my 14" MK brick saw.
That's some big talk! I don't think the time sink is in the 10" saw, but a 14" wet table saw is on my list. Once marked and to the saw, my 10 inch will probably cut in no more than 25-30 seconds. It is all the marking and measuring, picking up and replacing that takes the time.

These ones from our picture was I think a couple days of cutting but I didn’t keep track other than total hours. For Canadian dollars it was about $30/sq foot.
Years ago I started tracking as best I could the individual portions of every hardscape job. From move in hours, to daily clean up of tools, to excavation, base prep and install, screed and lay pavers, joint sand etc. Of course this only works when I am on the job the whole time, my guys won't record hours that detailed, but I have pretty extensive records going back a few years.
It has helped when certain jobs are very different. For example take two retaining walls. One is 160 feet long by 1 feet tall. The other is 40 feet long by 4 feet tall. Both walls are 160 square feet. Given all the other site parameters are the same, which is the more expensive wall?
Answer is obvious, but it helps to know how many feet per hour you can do on the base levelling course. All the other courses take no time compared to the base course.
 

Mudly

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
OH
I'm not following you on this. Are you saying you just score the 1/8" deep and then split with a chisel? I don't think you are saying that but it is an intriguing idea. what does it mean " then never touch the business side of the cut again with a blade" ?


That's some big talk! I don't think the time sink is in the 10" saw, but a 14" wet table saw is on my list. Once marked and to the saw, my 10 inch will probably cut in no more than 25-30 seconds. It is all the marking and measuring, picking up and replacing that takes the time.


Years ago I started tracking as best I could the individual portions of every hardscape job. From move in hours, to daily clean up of tools, to excavation, base prep and install, screed and lay pavers, joint sand etc. Of course this only works when I am on the job the whole time, my guys won't record hours that detailed, but I have pretty extensive records going back a few years.
It has helped when certain jobs are very different. For example take two retaining walls. One is 160 feet long by 1 feet tall. The other is 40 feet long by 4 feet tall. Both walls are 160 square feet. Given all the other site parameters are the same, which is the more expensive wall?
Answer is obvious, but it helps to know how many feet per hour you can do on the base levelling course. All the other courses take no time compared to the base course.
When i say dont touch the bussiness side of the cut, i mean youre cutting everything off with a saw but youre cutting below the score and probably tapering your cut to make the turn. Multiple plunges. Heres a pic of how tight you can get, we just happen to be finishing up this patio this week
 

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