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PG- Ultra

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by jbturf, Sep 16, 2009.

  1. jbturf

    jbturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,502

    this isnt really the right forum, but this is where i think it will be seen by folks who could use this info

    the B+S motor on my machine was junk again after last season, due to the
    motor being NLA, and i not being impressed or interested in PG's ultra upgrade kit-- i had the motor rebuilt
    i had this rebuilt by a shop 2x this year and got about 4 months out of it,
    running crummy most of the time-- and cost about $300

    so this brings me back to my original feelings about B+S motors,
    they are cheap and when they croke you buy new

    My Solution:
    i purchased this motor brand new from an online retailer $350
    BRIGGS 121607-0562 there may be other models that will work
    this is a 6.5hp vertical intek motor with NO pto shaft
    very similar to the oe motor

    i ordered base gasket #14-1029 $4
    crank seal 32-1037 $1
    pto seal 32-1042 $1

    i took the bottom sump pan with pto off of my old motor and swapped it
    onto the new motor, changed a few other parts
    i will post some pics and details tomorrow

    any ways , i have a new motor up and running
  2. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,708

    JB,thanks for the information. I was considering a rebuild--but dealer was worried about problems with aluminum block. Cancel that idea.

    Your solution is brilliant. I hope it works out OK. Somewhere there has to be a motor with a pto shaft that suits the Ultra situation. My home lawn mower has a PTO shaft but it comes out the left side. (Tecumseh)

    So if the shaft came out on the left--you would have to shift the spreader to the left or the motor to the right...hmmm. Or add an additional right angle bevel gear. Or maybe a small belt to connect the two horizontal shafts...or maybe drive the spinner with the big drive pulley. Maybe rotate the motor 45 degrees.

    Your idea is sweet.
  3. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,716

    Yes it is... I would like to know more details, specifically, parts necessary and your online supplier. It would be a great winter project for me and my guys.
  4. jbturf

    jbturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,502

    got the new motor from tulsa engine warehouse

    took a few pics while i was assembling
    needless to say, this is the motors internals, clean everything and work in a clean enviroment

    basically heres what i did
    1. drain engine oil from both old + new
    2. remove clutch from old motor, and old motor from machine,
    3. flip motors upside down and remove 7
    3/8 bolts from bottom of sump pan
    4. carefully pry pan off with flat screwdriver
    it will come off easy so dont gouge the metal
    5. pull start cord -to turn motor over until the timing marks on the
    crank and cam gear align
    6. remove governor assy from new motor,
    it sits loosely on the shaft above the cam gear
    just slide it up and off
    7.remove cam shaft, grab and wiggle while pulling up;
    on old motor the governor and cam shaft are an assembly
    they remove as 1-- carefull there is a thrust shim @ the end of shaft
    8.install old cam assy into new motor, b sure timing marks are aligned
    9. carefully pry old crank seal out of sump pan with screwdriver, clean bore
    and put a dab or rtv on outside race and install new seal with seal installer or large socket + hammer will do
    10.remove allen screw from bottom of sump pan, use a punch and tap the
    roll pin out of the pto gear, remove pto shaft retainer bolt and clip, slide out pto shaft, pry pto seal out and install new(like above), reassemble pto shaft
    11. clean engine case mating surfaces- remove and old gasket material 1st and wipe with thinner or other
    12.dab mating surfaces with RTV and install gasket
    13. align governor assy to the governor arm(this will be very obvious when your looking at it)
    14. install old sump pan onto new motor, it will just slide right down into place
    dont force, and be sure cam is aligned in sump pan as you slide is down
    15.install 7 bolts, i used 20 ft lbs, not sure the actual spec
    16. fill with 20 oz 10w30 oil

    the new motor had a different style muffler that was larger and fired directly to the front of engine, so i swapped the muffler from my old motor (side firing)onto the new 1

    on some versions of this briggs motor the tach/kill wire terminates at the throttle plate, if this is the case simply unplug the kill wire from the coil and
    plug in the wire from your old motor

    some variations have different throttle/ carb provisions, it may be necessary
    to swap out the whole throttle plate assy and carb from your old motor,
    if you have alot of hours on your old carb, save yourself some headaches
    and just replace it with new now

    the replacement motor i got, had a larger external of flywheel alt as compared to my original motor-- looks like a good thing, should provide
    better amps for batt and pump- ill post back on this once i test with meter





  5. jbturf

    jbturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,502

  6. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,716

    Looks like you might be able to put an exhaust deflector on that new muffler and use it. My muffler's pretty well shot...

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