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Phythium Blight

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Scott's Lawn Maintenance, Jun 25, 2013.

  1. Scott's Lawn Maintenance

    Scott's Lawn Maintenance LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 326

    I have a lawn with this disease I put down a fungicide to prevent it from getting worse. The disease did alot of damage to the lawn what would be the best thing to do at this point, reseed or wait until fall customer probably will not want to wait ?
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  2. WestGaPineStraw

    WestGaPineStraw LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 765

    Preventive fungicide and cultural practices on mowing, right amount of water, low rates of nitrogen. Make sure your soil ph and npk levels are at recommendations from soil test.
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  3. Scott's Lawn Maintenance

    Scott's Lawn Maintenance LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 326

    Thanks for the reply , but need to know what the approach would be to repairing the areas already damaged .
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  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,724

    Just reseed--but--pythium is a problem mainly where excess water is applied to new seed (or drainage is poor), new seed, and hot weather.
    So probably best be ready with fungicide--either apply in advance--or save the expense and be ready to apply instantly at the first sign of disease.
    It is probably likely hot wet conditions may happen again.
    Is this ryegrass?
    Can you get better seed?
  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    I would correct the cause first,,, otherwise your 'new seed' will be met with the same fate as the old stuff...
  6. foreplease

    foreplease LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,062

    I would encourage the customer to wait. The same heat and humidity conditions that favor pythium outbreak are going to make damping off in new seedlings a real risk.

    You can't germinate new seed without water and you do not want the rest of the yard over-watered. If you want to go to the trouble and expense of using inoculated seed you will have a somewhat better chance of establishing decent turf from seed. However, it is a crappy time of year where I am and you are to try to do this. In addition to damping off, you have crabgrass to compete with. If you have suppressed that with a pre-emergent then you run the risk of not getting your grass seed up either. Day length is too long and temperature extremes unfavorable too.

    It can be done but I would bet if you did one half now with all of the above precautions handled as well as possible and did the other half September 1, but October 1 the half you seeded late will look better. Still, there is the customer response and satisfaction part of this you must deal with and only you can know what will suit them best.
  7. phasthound

    phasthound LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,146

    Here's a good fact sheet from Rutgers on managing turf diseases. Let your customer know you will provide the best service & knowledge for long term results. Quick fixes don't work for long. And since you're down the shore, use cultural practices & products which will not cause harm to water quality.

    Attached Files:

  8. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    The common best management practices involved: Avoid high N, excessive thatch and good drainage, along with the usual, wet leaves...
    Those practices would be known as preventive cultural practices that just makes good sense... good drainage means that one must acquire the ability to look at the physical structure of the soil and make sense of it... i.e. "Where is the water 15 minutes after the irigation is done??? 1/2 hour or one hour after the water stops???"
    Thatch keeps the growth of roots right at the surface because that is where the water is always sitting, thus creating MORE thatch along with a water barrier...

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