Pitch of a paver base

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by PowerPlay, Jun 9, 2004.

  1. PowerPlay

    PowerPlay LawnSite Member
    Messages: 39

    Ok I have done several paver projects now but I know that I have more to learn. When you are establishing the sub base grade, do you guys use strings or lasers? And after the gravel base is in, how do you go about getting all the little high and low spots out as you compact without setting up strings everywhere? I feel like I have to set up a grid in about 3' sections to get everthing level. Then I try to compact and the strings get all screwed up. Is there a better and more efficient way?
  2. hole in one lco

    hole in one lco LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,793

    Iv done the stakes and level trick but then i bought a site level.
  3. landscapingpoolguy

    landscapingpoolguy LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 822

    Depending on the situation, i have setup temp forms like you would for a poured concrete patio and screeded over those boards....i also have done the pipes in the sand to screed. String lines and a good eye and a 4' level also work well

  4. odorisio

    odorisio LawnSite Member
    Messages: 64

    Laser transit.. works incredibly well. quick beeps means you are too high, slow beeps means you are too low, well worth it.
  5. Rex Mann

    Rex Mann LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 621

    The first thing we do at a new site is shoot elevations with a laser. as we shoot we establish our stations. Each station has the final elevation marked.

    If we are doing a larger job, and are using a skidsteer we will use the laser to check to proper sub-elevation.

    On smaller jobs we will set up string lines, but they may not be at every station it just depends. The string lines always represents our final paver height(s). Then we excavate to our needed depth. Then to check grade away from the string we will place a string from one station to another, which means it will cross the other string. Each string will be square to the other and touching. Then we measure from that string to the soil

    For installing base we do it the same way. We always use strings. We use a hard rake, that has 4-inch tines. When it's held at a 45-degree angle(like when raking) the tines are 3 1/2 inches. When the tines are at string level while the rake is at that 45-degree angle then you are pretty close if your using a 60mm paver and 25mm of concrete sand. The rake should be turned on its back side when checking for the desired elevation.

    Once that is all good
  6. Rex Mann

    Rex Mann LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 621

    Part 2- continued from above post

    Once that is good, remove your string lines and compact. Remember to compact from the outside in, just like when you compact the pavers. Some guys use nails to mark the their elevations. I prefer tape. We use the removable kind used on drywall. Tape allows you see the elevation very easily. It also allows us to use different colors if we have a station with two different elevation markings(when you build steps/stairs) As soon as we figure the elevations the tape goes on right under the string.

    The peaks and valleys are normal after compaction. We reinstate the string lines and measure, just like we do for the sub base.
    Then we take an 8-foot aluminum screed board or a10-foot screed pipe and use it like a straight edge. The ICPI spec on base is + or - 3/8 inch over 10-feet. Be sure to keep the straight edge perpendicular to the direction of the pitch. Remove any high spots and fill in any low spots. Compact again.

    These are a few of the basic things you can do not only to be more efficient, but have a better final product.



    our web site
  7. PowerPlay

    PowerPlay LawnSite Member
    Messages: 39

    Rex Mann,

    Thanks for the information. Your website is excellent. I hope to get ICPI certified in the next year.

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