Please Help! Clutch Problem 2005 Super Z

Discussion in 'Hustler Turf Equip (Archived)' started by JLH, Sep 7, 2010.

  1. JLH

    JLH LawnSite Member
    Messages: 103

    Mower Information:

    2005 Super Z 60" Kohler 28 EFI Purchase date: 5-03-05

    Model # 927053 Serial # 05032381

    Warner Clutch

    Homeowner use only. Maintained meticuously.

    402 hrs.

    At approximated 350 hrs. original PTO switch stopped engaging clutch, replaced switch and new switch lasted maybe 20 hrs.

    Installed 3rd switch and replaced pigtail.

    Yesterday 3rd switch also stopped.

    Talked to a mechanic and was told to unplug pigtail and check clutch with an ohm meter.

    I can borrow an ohm meter but I have never used one.

    Will someone please explain the procedure step by step so I can check the clutch to let me know if it might need to be replaced.

    I was told by mechanic that clutch might be grounding back through motor, I don't understand what he was saying.

    Can someone please explain?

    How can a clutch with only 402 hrs. need replacing.

    I cut 2.5 acres twice per week, so I'm never taking off much grass and the mower is never under a heavy load.

    I did a search and read several post about switch, pigtail and clutch issues, so I'm aware that others have had similiar problems.

    My main concern is how to use an ohm meter and what will it tell me.

    Thanks for the help.
  2. mowerconsultant

    mowerconsultant LawnSite Fanatic
    Male, from Syracuse, NY
    Messages: 9,769

    To use a meter to test the clutch you are going put it in the ohm reading setting and contact each lead to each separate wire on the clutch wires, this will give you a reading, let us know what the reading is.
    These clutches do wear out, many things cause this, but the nature of this clutch is working in heat and low to the ground near debris also.
    Why it went with this amount of hours... I cant say without seeing it in person.

  3. JLH

    JLH LawnSite Member
    Messages: 103

    Ohm meter test results:

    Unpluged pigtail from clutch:

    red wire from ohm meter to red at clutch terminal

    black wire from ohm meter to black at clutch terminal

    with ohm meter set at 20k got a reading of 0.00

    with ohm meter set at 200k got reading of 00.0

    I'm assuming I need to replace clutch.

    Can you confirm or give me any other advice?

    If I need a new clutch will it have a different bracket and how difficult is it to install?

    Is this the part # that I need?

    Part # 787366

    Thanks for your support


    If I have to replace the clutch can you e-mail me a tech. bulletin that would include instructions on removal and replacement of clutch for my particular mower?

    Thanks again
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 9, 2010
  4. mowerconsultant

    mowerconsultant LawnSite Fanatic
    Male, from Syracuse, NY
    Messages: 9,769

    Sounds like you have no resistance in the clutch windings which means its no good...
    That is the part # you need and it comes with full documentation on removing the old and installing the new clutch.

  5. JLH

    JLH LawnSite Member
    Messages: 103


    I ordered new clutch on Thursday and received it today.

    Checked ohms on new clutch before removing old clutch from mower.
    With ohm meter settings of 200K and 20K, got same reading as on old clutch, which was stated in previous post.

    Switched ohm meter to 200 and got a reading of 2.9

    Went immediately and checked old clutch at a setting off 200 and also got reading of 2.9

    Therefore I don't believe there is anything wrong with my old clutch.

    Installed 4th PTO switch today and mowed for 2 hrs, PTO switch is working perfect now, but it may last only a few hours.

    So my problem is not solved. Can you advise further as to what might be the problem and offer a solution.

    I've talked to several mechanics and no one seems to be able to give me a solid answer. I understand that it's not easy to diagnose a problem over the phone or on-line, but I would really like to be able to solve the problem.

    At $20 plus each I don't want to keep buying PTO switches.

    Thanks for your advice.
  6. mowerconsultant

    mowerconsultant LawnSite Fanatic
    Male, from Syracuse, NY
    Messages: 9,769

    You need to check your wiring, the clutch pigtail, the harness all the way to the control panel, check your relays also.
    When you gave us a reading on the clutch earlier of 0, that pointed at the clutch.

  7. JLH

    JLH LawnSite Member
    Messages: 103


    I was hoping you could give me further advice to help me solve my issue with burned out PTO switches.

    My previous post details my last test performed.

  8. Ruben Rocha

    Ruben Rocha LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 577

    Well first PJ gave correct advise because you stated 0 ohms on the clutch from your prior post now you say it is 2.9 ohms.
    My 2 cents.
    Rare but even though the ohms seem correct it could be pulling a tad more amps that it should and burning the contacts on the switch.
    Also when cleaning the mower I hope you are not directing water on the control panel. This could cause corrosion on the switch.
    Last it could be you just had some bad luck with the switches.
  9. teckjohn

    teckjohn LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 282

    it most likely got the coil hot inside the clutch , melted the wire and let it short and rub against the housing on the inside which is connected to the crankshaft which is grounded
  10. JLH

    JLH LawnSite Member
    Messages: 103

    I did not say that PJ was incorrect on his advice related to the information I gave him when I stated that the ohm reading was 0. I knew he gave his advice based on what I stated.

    I just stated that I checked the new and old clutch with the ohm meter set at 200instead of 20k or 200k and that is when the reading changed from 0 to 2.9.

    I have not installed new clutch at this point because according to the reading of 2.9 I'm not sure that is the problem. If the clutch is not the problem I can return it for a refund.

    I have 5 hrs. on 4th PTO switch and it is working perfect at this point, but form previous experience I assume it could fail at any time.

    I have noticed on the first 3 PTO switches that have failed, after unplugging and removing the switch that the same spade on each switch has a blister right where the spade comes out of the switch. The blister looks a raised portion of plastic around spade that got to hot and formed a blister or should I say bubble.

    It's hard to paint a picture with words, unless maybe someone else has seen the same thing.

    There are 8 spades and the spade with the blister is on the corner which is identified on the side of switch as "COM A". When looking at the harness that plugs into the switch this is the spade that has 3 wires going to it, the other spades have only 1 wire going to them.

    Does this information help anyone identify or come any closer to diagnose the problem?

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