Please Reveiw fert and weed program

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by mkempcol, Feb 24, 2009.

  1. mkempcol

    mkempcol LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    This will be my first year running a fertilizer and weed control program.
    I am licensed and insured. Im operating in Southern Idaho and our growing/cutting season is April1 to Oct31 on average. I would appreciate any input on this. I have had some local input but I just thought I would throw it out there and see if any of you have any helpful suggestions that could add to my program.

    Proposed plan includes:

    Fert late march with 24-2-9 with Dimension 20%PCSCU
    Possibly a granular post emerg in may after things pop-up a bit?
    -any suggestions on the best products on the above (post-emerg)
    Fert june 24-2-9
    Fert Aug 24-2-9
    Winterizer in Nov 21-2-5
    Our cutting/growing season here is April1 to Oct 31 on average
    spot spray shrub areas as needed round-up
    spot spray turf areas as needed 2-4D
    I would like to keep to granular this first year if possible
    Do any of you have suggestions for fertilizer for shrubs and trees?
    Thanks for all the help everyone
  2. mngrassguy

    mngrassguy LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,167

    We "split" the first application of dimension. We put it down at 1/2 rate 2x, 30 days apart. This will give you pre and post control and your control will last longer into the season. Also, you are "spoon feeding" the N rather than putting it all down at once.

    I carry a hand can of Aclaim, MSMA or Drive later in the season to spot spray crabgrass breakthroughs.

    Don't waste your $ on granular post weed controls. They seldom work well, if at all.

    I use Davey Tree fert myself.

    Good luck
  3. tombo82685

    tombo82685 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 288

    For pre emerge barricade or dimension is best
    Not sure if you have forsythias in your area, but the general rule of thumb for when to apply pre emerg is when the forsysthia is in bloom

    couple questions:

    1. what is the slow release percentage on your june and nov fert app?
    2. Do you have a pesticide license?
    3. How many lawns do you fertilize? just curious as to how much time you want to really give maintenance and labor wise to the lawns.
    4. For the post emerg are you targetting just crabgrass or other weeds as well? If just the crabgrass treat as soon as you see the crabgrass in the lawn. Best time for control is when the crabgrass plant is in the 3-5 leaf stage. Once it starts tillering control becomes harder with each successful tiller.
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2009
  4. mkempcol

    mkempcol LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    sounds good on the splitting of the dimension applications
    Davey tree fertilizer? Is this a granular, spike or what? Is it effective on a wide rang of trees? Ill look into it but any adivice is great

    1. I will check into the slow release, good thought
    2. Yes, I am licensed and have insurance policy ready to go, I have a pesticide research background but it was very specialized or isolated work so my general knowledge of what commercial products are out there and how effective they are is not very impressive.
    3. Not many, right now I have about 15 residentials bbut I am doing the research now so I know where to go and what to do in future. I am bidding 4 large office complexes and a grocery store property at the moment so if I get them they will be very labor intensive. The more problems I can eliminate by having a solid fert and weed program the better.
    4. crabgrass, dandelion, possible tumble weed? One property on the edge of ag land.
    Thanks for the help all, I really appreciate any and all imput
  5. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,497

    You're going to need to look into a different means to do your post emergent, also. Trying to do it granular, is going to cost you alot of money. Not product-wise,..but labor wise...Quite simply,..It can't be done. Granular is essentially ineffective, and is a guessing game of hit and miss. you will spend more time going back and forth touching up weeds than you will doing actual production. you cn't base a business on chasing after missed weeds all the time...Time goes on, and it is just more time that customers have weeds. Not to mention that it takes alot less product to kill a weed the size of a quarter than it does to kill one 5 inches across.
  6. mngrassguy

    mngrassguy LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,167

    Davey Tree fert is a powder that is suspended in water and injected into the root zone under high pressure. I get it from CPS (UAP) or Lesco.
  7. LawnTamer

    LawnTamer LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,986


    Your program is OK, 24-2-9 is a decent blend, you will likely find that your soils have plenty of P, (nearly all great basin soils do) so focusing on N and K is good.
    A lot of people talk up dimension, and in certain instances it is a good choice, but I wouldn't use it if I were you. Your warm season weed pressure will be crabgrass, foxtail, spurge, purslane and oxalis. Dimension will do little good on everything but the grasses. I recommend using Barricade (prodiamine) instead. If you can't find a good fert blend with it, I can hook you up with one. You are in Id. so you should be able to use Wilbur Ellis, or IFA, or even Steve Regan, may be others there too.

    I would consider adding one more app in May. You will have a lot of weed pressure from dandelions and clover in the spring, and clients won't want to wait till June to see them gone.

    Do your round 1 late Mar/early April
    2nd round May
    3rd round June/July
    round 4 Aug/sept, better for fall weed control
    round 5 winterizer, as lawns go dormant.

    No good granular weed control, so I would agree with what others have said, use granular fert and liquid weed control, you will need more than 2-4-d for the range of weeds you will be facing.

    Use 3-way for spring weeds, and then switch to something like Momentum fx in summer.
  8. tombo82685

    tombo82685 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 288

    When you fertilize in spring dont pound it with nitrogen apply like .5-.75lb of N. The spring is time to build up root growth so it can hold on through summer. If you apply to much N the plant will focus on to much top growth and not on root growth. I asked about the slow release because im not sure if you wanted to go back and spoon feed some of your properites. This is a golf course technique we use but it really helps. If you decide to do this go with an organic fertilizer like milorganite, it wont burn the grass. Apply it at 2 week intervals of about .1-.2 lbs/K. If you don't want to go with spoond feeding make sure on your last fertilize in late may or early june that you have labout 30% percent slow release, as that will slowly feed your lawn throughout most of the summer. On your november fertilization make sure you have about 40-50 percent slow release nitrogen to help feed into the winter months, and it will help with an early spring green up. IBDU is a good choice here. Im not sure if you can access this type of broadleaf herbicide but tricloplyr (confront) works wonders on the ground ivy, purslane, clover, oxalis, violet, etc. I agree with lawn tamer here, P is usually always present in soil in an abundant amount. You really should get a soil test done for these houses or properties because you may be adding things that might not be needed. On a usual soil test P is usually abundant here in the east, while potassium is a little below optimum. Also, a soil analysis will tell you ur pH levels, if your pH is lower then 6 then your nutrients are bounded up in the soil particles, and they are not available to the plant.
  9. tombo82685

    tombo82685 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 288

    Once your into about early to mid september fert aps increase your nitrogen intake to about a 1lb per fert ap to gain back some of the root growth lost during the summer. This is also when you would want to over seed lawns to.
  10. mkempcol

    mkempcol LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    So the pre-emergent with the fert in early spring. Then a broadcast spray of post emergent as soon as the weeds start coming up? Any suggestions on a good product or tank mix for this broadcast app? I agree that I dont want to be chasing weeds all year, especially on a decent sized property. Is this still the case on a small res property?

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