Pool Deck Renovation

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by DVS Hardscaper, Sep 5, 2009.

  1. 4 seasons lawn&land

    4 seasons lawn&land LawnSite Gold Member
    from NY
    Messages: 3,613

    How does it get fastened? The coping to the pool i mean.
  2. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,619

    The tile was in not the greatest shape before we started. Many of the tiles were loose before we started. The home owner stated that they kinda neglect the pool during the winter, meaning when it fills with water or snow - they have never pumped the water so that it maintains below the tile, thus the tile has frozen.

    So the Mrs. told us not to worry about the tile because they would have new tile installed.

    Which brings up another point. It is my personal opinion that the older the pool - the better the craftsmanship of the installation of the tile. The newer the pool - the poorer the installation. With that said, for those that will / may be doing paver work around pools - I suggest you have some sort of a clause in your agreement covering this. Also, be sure to explain the potential of disturbing the tile to the client upon initial consultation, as well as during signing of the contract. Back in June we worked with a pool that was built in 1961, and the tile on that pool wasn't budging!

    Tamper is an Ignersol Rand. Has a couple tiny features that Wacker doesn't.

    Last edited: Sep 20, 2009
  3. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,619

    The coping is mortared to the concrete header. I have a busy beginning of the week coming, hopefully towards the end of this coming week I'll have time to down load pics to the computer and upload to the internet.

    I can see guys wanting to use adhesive. It won't work. The header is not perfectly level, you need mortar to adjust the levelness. And the coping looks more finished with grouted joints.
  4. mrusk

    mrusk LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,260

    dvs what features does the tamper have that the wacker doesnt?
  5. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,619

    I'll be glad to answer this question. But please realize we all have our own personal reasons for preferencing one machine over another.

    The biggest thing for me with IR vs Wacker is that IR is more easily servicable. It's almost as if IR took a Wacker and studied it and said "ok, what can we do to make this so people like it better?".

    Some guys will take a machine to a mechanic anytime the slightest thing happens to it. Me, as long as parts are available I'll fix it and keep it forever, 95% of the time I work on our equipment myself. The IR is much more user friendly in terms of servicing the belt. And the vibrator is easily accessible. Whereas with our Wacker - the vibrator is not easy to access, and the belt requires a little more effort to get to it. Also engine swapping on the IR is much more easier/friendly compared to Wacker. Others may not care about these things, but I do, I'm the one who works on it. Someone set forth some thought into designing them.

    IR also has adjustable handlebars.
  6. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,619

    This thread has some age to it.

    I finally have some finished pictures of this job.

    The pool deck is tough to shoot because it's heavily shaded all day. So being there at the right time, when the sun is at the right position is challanging. The pics were shot with Fuji 35mm Superia Reala, with a wide angle lens.

    The pool is NOT dirty!!! They had the pool completely re-done. New Plaster and new tile. The tile they went with is a VERY VERY VERY dark blue, therefore it makes the water appear black! I think it's Wicked :)

    The shape of the pool was the shape of the previous concrete pool deck. Client was NOT interested in changing the shape.

    Ber Web.JPG

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    Ber Web 6.JPG
  7. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,619

    And no, the pics aren't blurry. Lighting was really bad. Like I said, unless I pay a pro photogragher, it's a tough spot to shoot, which is why it took so long to get final pictures.

  8. TomG

    TomG LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 674

    Nice work! Unfortunately I cant see the original pictures at the beginning of the thread it says they are deleted. I always like looking at before and afters. One question, in the fourth picture showing the nice even curve of the patio. How did you mark that to be cut? Do you find the center of the radius and then run a string line from that out to the edge and have a person walk at the end of the string and mark it? If that makes any sense that's what we do. I'm just curious to your method, because it looks really good.
  9. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,619

    I'll have to post the other pics. I forgot those pics no longer are there!

    Thats the infamous radius! This was an existing concrete deck that we demoed and removed. For most of the project we duplicated exactly what was there. No plans were drawn. So there was no radius for us to measure out like there would be if it was a new job from scratch.

    The previous deck was in closer to the pool.

    Our beloved client was having a bad week. As you can tell by the house, this is an extremely high end client. And when such people are having a bad day/week while you're working there guess who gets the brunt of it!

    So they accused me of making the patio smaller! What they did not realize is I shot pictures of the old patio from multiple angles. And I measured certain points and I made notes in my notebook of the measurements. We got in a huge argument! They did NOT shoot before pictures. They swore up and down that I shrank their patio. I got the photos and tried to show them to the Mrs showing her that if anything the patio was larger. She REFUSED to even look at the photos.

    So after her and I fighting like brother and sister (she is only a few years older than me) I said "helen, I have no problem making this patio however you want it, I don't like the current shape, I'd much rather make it larger and give it better form, but you need to stop yelling at me and accusing me of things just because you feel like it".

    So she started being nice.

    We got out the snap edge and her and I layed out the outer perimeter using the snap edge, not using any center points and not measuring anything. Almost all our radiuses on all our jobs are layed out with snap edge over the pavers, then the snap edge is traced with a pencil and pavers are cut.

    Even our jobs that are from scratch and have a plan with the center of the radiuses shown are still layed out with snap edge, traced, and cut. But yes, we'll usually put a steel stake in the center and measure out from there and mark the radius. Then we use the snap edge to mark a perfect, clean line.

    We do most of our outside cuts with a stationary saw. Only once in a while do we cut with a cutoff. And yes, my guys are good with cut off saws, infact one of them worked at a company for many years that does not even own a real paver saw. I like the results of a table saw better.

    Last edited: Mar 10, 2011
  10. SVA_Concrete

    SVA_Concrete LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 467

    same snap edge process here, but we use our regular cut off saw and put a 12" blade on it. the smaller blade does wonders for cutting arcs.

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