I keep hearing about people applying a Pre-Emergent to Mulch Beds. Can anyone tell me a little about this process and how to do it. We normally just mulch trees and plant and hand weed when needed. Would applying a Pre-Emergent work for me?
Brains wrote:<p>>Would applying a Pre-Emergent work for me? <p>Only certified licensed pesticide applicators with a tree and shrub license <br>can legally apply this product.<p>If you were currently licensed you would already know the answer to your question.
Hey larry, you are a true bastard. I see everyone ripping you up on the other forums, and now I know why. I guess you don't go back there because they chapped your butt! Sure will be glad when you no longer feel welcome around here.
Maybe Stone was responding the way he was because he knows what he is talking about. You CANNOT legally apply a pre-emergent product without certification. You may get caught and then you will think, maybe I should have listened to that Stone guy, maybe he was trying to help me out. The one thing I have learned in my 2 years in the lawn business, don't attempt to do anything unless you understand it. You can get in way over your head even though this is not rocket science.
Nature's annual reseeding of landscape beds by new weeds is controlled by either 1" to 1-1/2" of new mulch or preemergent application. New mulch will smother new seeds: as they germinate, they need light to survive, can't grow the 1" to get to light, so they die after germination. But note that tree seeds have stored energy to grow that high; in nature the oak seedling may have to grow up through 2" to 6" of forest leaf carpet. If mulch is not renewed, then preemergent will be beneficial. Have found that Snapshot will function well in old mulch, don't know about other types. To mulch and apply pre-em is really overkill, and an unnecessary use of chemical.<br><p>----------<br>Jim<br>North central Indiana
I have taken the course and it doesn't tell you s- - - about the chemicals you are about to use or what they are used for. What the guy was asking was does it work or not. We are all here to ask guestions and give answers if we can. I have questions on chemicals that my supplier can't answer so of course I am going to ask them here. I have the books here infront of me but I will still ask you, the guys that use it everyday if it is any good. Most pesticide company push their own products, weather they work the best or not.
If you use snapshot, you really should water it in after app (Label suggests it at least). I just applied, then mulched, then turned the bed sprinklers on for a Half hour. Looking for real good results. <p>steveair
Cantoo wrote:<p>>I have questions on chemicals that my supplier can't answer so of course I am going to ask them here. <p>Fire away!!!!<p>There are two good anwsers to this question<br>and my usual point about the great liablity <br>of applying pesticides without a license.<p>All in all I think the original question has<br>been answered correctly IMHO.<br>
Apply your pre emergent on top of your mulch. You want your pre emergent barrier on top. If your in a area that has crabgrass problems, thats reason enough to apply a pre E to ornamental beds. We use Barricade and Gallery tank mixed together in the spring and Gallery alone in the fall for winter annual weeds. This really reduces the amount of Roundup we have to spray. <br>cantoo:<br>Your right, they don't tell you shi_. Thats up to you to figure out. And I have sure learned not to trust anyone selling something. According to them it's the best thing on the market. Well..... if it's the best how come there are so many? Try your University or Extension Service. Our university tests many different chemicals over a several year trial and then publishes the results. For instance, They did one on the old Roundup and the new Roundup Pro (bigger better fancier and more expensive), and guess what. They found no noticeable difference.<br>Oh yea, You need a license if you apply it for anyone other than yourself in most states.