Pricing Landscape Timbers

Discussion in 'General Industry Discussions' started by dtelawncare, Feb 12, 2006.

  1. dtelawncare

    dtelawncare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 227

    I have a customer wants new edging put around all his flower beds. Has that cheap plastic border now. He wants Landscaping timbers put in down. All the beds together are over 600 ft. I will have to cut many of the timbers also. How should I charge?? Thanks for any ideas or info.
  2. Gatewayuser

    Gatewayuser LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,765

    Just figure up what kind of time it will take x your hourly rate $40 or what ever, if you buy the timbers mark them up by 40%.
  3. steve in Pa.

    steve in Pa. LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 294

    I would try to talk him out of the timbers and go with ep henry curbstones. excellent money maker for the time vs the timbers
  4. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,112

    Well you will have to remove the old edging,cut in a new edge to hold the larger timbers and set them in + cut them like you much are you paying for the timbers and are they 8' or 10' timbers?

    JKOOPERS LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,259

    i would try to upsell him a stone product
  6. LB1234

    LB1234 LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,208

    Be carefule about cutting timbers. 6x6's you can get away with cutting it on four sides with a chop saw or circular saw. I cut on four sides with a circular saw and then finish up w/ handsaw. I clean up the edges with a belt sander if it is going to be visible.

    Also, cutting on angles can be a little more difficult when trying to march the lines.
  7. gammon landscaping

    gammon landscaping LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 553

    i really like the metal edging i get at johndeer it is thicker than the home cheapo stuff. it is really easy to make nice curves with it. i mainly install it with new landscapes so i just rake dirt up on the front side about 2 inches and mulch the back so no digging edging for the beds. but it is about 1.50 a foot so a little pricey . if you are installing it in an existing yard just take flat spade and split the sod and instert it and use a 2x4 and a hammer to drive it down good and you are set
  8. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,112

    gammon..he said the customer wants Landscape timbers K?
  9. dtelawncare

    dtelawncare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 227

    I personally prefer stone border, but he asked for the timbers. The property is very rustic looking. It is about a two acre river lot. Lots of hardwoods all over the property. Best price I found was $2.69 for 8ft timbers. I hve not yet priced the comparison between timbers and stone. Also, the property is not flat in any way. Some of the beds are up and down. I was also thinking the timbers would be easier to trim around eing that I will be maintaing the property year round.
  10. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

    Now you need to take a measuring tape and measure all around the perimeter where the timbers are to go, total it up, then add 5 or 10 percent to make sure (i.e.: buy 2 or 3 extra timbers, 4 might not hurt, depends how many feet - buy one extra timber for every 120 feet or so). As you're measuring, think how many you can use full-size (the less cutting you have to do, the better, creativity doesn't hurt).
    600 feet you say? 600 / 8 = 75, so get 80 timbers.

    Estimate 3 dollars / timber plus 40 dollars for you to pick them up, and it takes a few hours, I forget, figure this:
    Most of the timbers you can likely use full size, but you then have to drill 2 (or 3) holes in each one with a large drill bit so you can drive the nail through... Instead of nails, use rebar, it's cheaper but you want 1.5 to 2-foot pieces and nails don't come but a foot long or so, also the rebar holds better because it's corrugated. Buy several lengths of rebar which you will then have to cut into pieces, you can use an angle grinder for that, or if you have a metal cutter that would be perfect.
    You also need a sledgehammer (lol) to drive the rebar through the holes you drilled, into the ground.
    p.s.: the drill-bit will need to be close in diameter to the rebar - too small is no good but neither is too large, you'll likely have to buy a special bit just for this, get a long one, get two (case one breaks).

    So, figure an hour for every 10 - 12 timbers or thereabouts, 2 hours minimum.
    And check to see if the customer has an electric outlet, and bring at least 100 feet of extension cord.
    Pre-cut the rebar at home, or before you head out, so you have all those pieces ready.
    Far as cutting the timbers, I myself use my chainsaw (onsite) for that, just have to be careful, take it easy with it.
    ... forgot what else there is but that's the basics.

Share This Page