Prototype truck photo's

Discussion in 'Original Pictures Forum' started by StealthDT, Aug 10, 2005.

  1. FrankenScagMachines

    FrankenScagMachines LawnSite Platinum Member
    from IN
    Messages: 4,739

    Mark, I see ads for them alot down here but I will have to look for phone numbers. Check out the for sales here on LS, a almost new dump insert for $1700.... may get it for 1500 that would be a good deal because you've already got sides and hydraulics built in ready to bolt in and go... with a flatbed and hoist kit you have a lot of work to install it. Plus you can retain the pickup bed look with a dump insert... i'll look for the flatbeds.

  2. StealthDT

    StealthDT LawnSite Member
    Messages: 97

    No offense taken. I used two 1978 chevy half tons for a decade with dump kits hauling everything you can think of, always overweight. The only thing I had to replace was the battery, engines, transmissions, rear ends and tailgates. I never even had to change the oil in the dump hydraulic pump. I'm talking 6 and seven days a week work since I was selling sifted topsoil, mulch and firewood while landscaping, clearing & mowing. So the structure of the bed will survive heavy commercial abuse.

    When the beds are loaded they are landed on the frame and it supports the weight. The only time the bed is stressed is during the 19-30 second dump cycle. With properly designed reinforcement under the bed, it's very easy to protect it from distorting or twisting. Sure you can pull off the bed, sell it and install whatever. Sure you can bolt in an insert. In my experience, I'd rather utilize the existing bed, rather than a flatbed or insert. This is simply my way of doing the same job while adding only 250 pounds of hardware rather than 600 to 1000. I disagree an insert retains the look of a pickup. You've got the headache rack, sides exposed and missing the tailgate.

    As far as the labor to install a dump kit, yes, it is more extensive. But I'm designing mine to utilize the factory holes to reduce the effort. You've only got to drill nine 3/8" holes, NONE thru the bed surface, and I send you a new M42 cobalt bit in the box. The rest of the effort is tightening bolts, hooking up wires & hoses. I'd rather try to lift off a sheetmetal bed than a flatbed or insert. We use a common engine hoist for the task.

    Speaking of people who can't load a truck, what are they doing on the equipment to start with? I had one accident during loading where a wheel loader turned and hit the rear window and cab of the truck. Didn't hurt the bed, and the yards insurance paid the damage. If it's going to get hit and beat up, it doesn't matter what dump system you've installed.

    Let's talk pricing now. Obviously if you think something is too expensive then your mind automatically goes into devils advocate mode to find fault in order to justify the cheaper alternative. I do it myself all the time. A typical choice for me is, do i use a stainless steel bolt or pin or the cheaper mild steel. Do I use a stainless grease fitting, or the cheapest thing I can screw in the hole. Why have 14 grease fitting holes to begin with? Why powdercoat everything when I can buy a spray can of paint? Why machine snap ring grooves in all the pins and use snap rings when I could saw it and use a cotter pin. Why use a 1" diameter pin size when i could get away with 3/4" or maybe 5/8"?

    These are things we all do, and until one is fully educated about the specifications of the article, you should avoid judgement based on sticker shock.

    Thanks for asking though!

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