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Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by jcom, May 30, 2006.
Anyone know where I can find replacement blades for the "weird" Flair-it cutter?
Go to harbour freight , you can buy the complete unit cheaper than the blade.
Here where I'm at we bury our sprinkler pipes, so it would be impossible for a properly installed and compacted joint to blow out after a few years. It must be somebody else's jobs your having to fix. If you put glue on both the pipe and the fitting you are either going to push it out of the pipe or into the pipe, there is only a very small amount of space that the glue can fill and do it's job. Any more than that is going to go somewhere that is of no value.I think if you like doing it your way you should keep it up, but I'm not gonna waste my time or my glue like that.
I fixed two BURIED 2" tee's that had blown out from poor glueing just a few weeks ago.
Don't underestimate water pressure.
Please go read this how-to guide from the ACTUAL manufacturers of the cement you use...and I use, and most other folks in the free world use...after you read this guide and study the easy to follow pictures, get back to us with an opinion.
After that, if you still believe you are correct....please check yourself into some sort of clinic.
Now that is just funny....please Mr. Vern, goto the HGTV's forums and grace them w/ your presence so that you can create many more clients for all the professional sprinkler techs on this site...thank you Mr. Vern......take care.
How long have you been doing this? Because apparently not long enough. Do you understand hydraulics? Yes, we all bury our pipes too. Do you think we are in some kind of third world are? And sometimes even glued properly, things can come apart. More rarely if you glue both the pipe and fittings.
Ok, so I read the document mentioned and their explanation makes good sense to me. However in the real world applications I encounter, if we get 70% strength on a joint that is running at less than 35% of the rated pressure; I think were gonna be ok. I have repaired failed joints many times and in every instance the failures resulted from not being seated properly(lack of depth). I will however ensure that my crews read the document and understand why it's important to get good coverage on the pipe and the fitting. I am sure when it comes to the larger water lines it will be worth the little extra effort.
As for the comment on understanding hydraulics, I have a good working understanding of that. I can say that a properly designed sprinkler system will not experience the kinds of hydraulic loading that would approach the maximum pressure rating of Sch 40 or even CL200. If the system is designed correctly and is buried and compacted correctly the pressure on the average joint should be so far below the rated pressure that a slightly compromised joint will not cause a major issue.
WRONG, WRONG, and again, your just WRONG. The number one cause of excessive pressure on pipe and pipe fittings is AIR. Not excessive pressure from any other source but gravity and air. In the trade, it is called water HAMMER. We call it water hammer because the physics of water traveling in PVC pipe hits trapped air like a hammer. As we all learned back in school........equal and opposite reaction........ You cannot compress a liquid, but you can compress a gas (that gas would be air. very similar to the hot air being expelled saying that you can't overload a properly designed system). Take a system with say 15 or even 20 feet of elevation change and initiate the water by fully opening a ball valve. Your going to get to replace something. This is why flow rates are listed in FPS. The faster the water traveling through the pipe, the greater the chance for that water when suddenly shut off to hit an air pocket and produce water hammer. An irrigation system that has been drained for repair or winterized is a great place to experiment, and experimentation will give you ample opportunity to practice your solvent welding skills.
Someone been sniffing the primer again?