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Pythium Root Rot or Brown Patch..?

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by Bushido Bonsai, Jul 11, 2013.

  1. Bushido Bonsai

    Bushido Bonsai LawnSite Member
    Messages: 3

    I've been lurking and reading here for sometime on Lawnsite and with my first post I'd like to 1st thank everyone for their collective knowledge and contributions. I am new to lawn care and do just a few homes; I could use some advice on how to best (economic) treat this fungal problem..

    This problem arose in late June after about 10 straight days of rain in a drainage problem area. I believed it to be Pythium Root Rot since it was laid flat, blackened roots, and wet/slimy appearance. I treated with Agri-Fos (potassium salts and phosphorus acid) mixed 1:2 with water. I did a 2nd dose about 2 weeks later (couple days ago).

    Any advice would be much appreciated.




  2. hokis

    hokis LawnSite Member
    Messages: 43

    root rot. Our golf course got it bad and we ended up having to air rate and lay down more rye seed
  3. turfmd101

    turfmd101 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,375

    Pythium root rot; If you can get at the root system. Lightly put two fingernails against the root at the node and pull down. If the outer root tissue pulls off the inner sheath leaving a piece of thin string looking root. Its pythium root rot. If the root breaks off or the outer tissue does not come off easily it could be early pythium just not the root rot stage. Not likely Large patch (BP).
  4. Bushido Bonsai

    Bushido Bonsai LawnSite Member
    Messages: 3

    Hokis/TurfMD, Thanks for the feedback.
    I plan to treat next with Subdue Maxx (Mefenoxam), hopefully I'll be able to save some parts of the lawn.

    Anyone have any suggestions for soil prep to reseed after the Pythium Root Rot has been fully treated? Any soil amendments specifically helpful?
  5. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,727

    Is this perennial ryegrass? I am not sure any seed variety claims resistance to pythium...but...a top quality perennial rye, that claims in general "disease resistant" is a good idea. Be sure to get a variety that is listed among the top ten for New Jersey in the NTEP tests. Be sure to get a newer variety that was released recently--say nothing earlier than 2008.

    Cooler weather--and without the excess moisture is my only other suggestion. Probably mid-September when the temps come down below 80.
  6. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    You've already touched on the problem in your opening statements... drainage... you best prep and amendments are whatever it takes to increase drainage...
    Drainage,,, is the most common issue with fungal disease,,, from everything I've ever read... :)
  7. Bushido Bonsai

    Bushido Bonsai LawnSite Member
    Messages: 3

    Thanks Smallaxe, that's just what I was thinking.. After treating with Subdue Maxx, I'll see what remains and what lives. From there I had planned to add a 50/50 mix of compost and sand to loosen up the heavy clay soil. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything I was missing..
  8. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Messages: 5,954

    turfmd101 >> you know your stuff for sure. (diagnosing Pythium in the field) Very very good IMO.

    I also agree with Riggle (long time bud). Ryegrass for sure. I am not a ryegrass fan. If it were me, I would introduce turf-type tall fescue. just sayin'

    Nice thread, cuz we've recently diagnosed Pythium in KBG. Weather has been tropical in the Midwest.

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