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Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by JimLewis, Jun 18, 2009.
Too much IMO. Mulched hydrozones like this with established plantings I would be running on a 7-25 day interval in a soil with a high water holding capacity and rooting depths beyond 12". Of course you can't go that high with the SMT on your interval ...... stoopid designers. Manually set your PR as well.
Changing your soil type isn't going to do much for run times unless you are going from a sandy to a clay soil type. That said, if you want to minimize your run times using soil type you should choose clay loam and increase your rooting depth. Note .... you really should check the rooting depth and set it as accurately as possible.
There are a variety of ways, but probably the easiest would be to increase the shade factor to 75% or 100% (Kmc = 0.75 and 0.50 respectively). Note .... the more you move away from simple adjustments such as a percentage of ETo (varying Ks and setting everything else to 1), the more important it is you get the information correct (i.e the landscape coefficients Ks, Kd, Kmc (RB shade factor). With the WMSL, the Ks is your only real adjustment factor, with exception to the +/- percentage which I believe they threw in there for a "simple" adjustment to their standard generic settings.
I wouldn't be overly concerned with a 5 degree differential. Given it is a wired sensor, your mounting choices are limited. Put it where it makes the most sense (i.e. something as close to open field conditions as you can find).
What is the difference in the Grow-In Watering Time vs. setting plant maturity to Newly Planted?
For Grow-In Watering Time it says it will do 3 minutes per cycle 8 times evenly during the window for 14 days. Then under Newly Planted it asks how many cycles per day, how long per cycle, and for how many days.
Are these mutually exclusive features? Is the Grow-In Watering Time global across all zones whereas Newly Planted would be just for each zone individually. The manual isn't very clear at all
Grow in is probably intended for grass overseeds. Winter rye in TX for example. Newly planted is shrubs, flowers. just off the top of my head so I may get ko'd.
I HATE this controller... one of the guys I bid against a lot sells them like a used car salesman and I get stuck installing them some times.
Run times are a NIGHTMARE
The home owner WILL mess it up.
I tell my customers to K.I.S.S. Keep it simple stupied.
I never leave the manual for them when I install them. I tell the HO that if they screw with it they're going to eff it up and I'm going to charge double to come fix it so leave it alone and call me if they think something needs to be changed. An HO messing with an SMT is like me trying to change the rhythm on my own pacemaker. Some things should be left to people who understand what they're doing.
You can save your setting as the "Contractor Default" so it only takes the press of one button to change back to your original settings.
Anyone know why it says the next irrigation is the same day after it has already watered for the day? In other words if runs for the day on 7/26, completes all watering. After it completes the run it says next estimated irrigation is 7/26? Drives me nuts as you can never really tell what it is going to run next.
Also what dail position, etc tells you how long it watered for the last time it ran?
I set the zones to newly established. I have it set for 4 times per day, 7 minutes each (for new grass). And yet I walk out there and it says "Zone 1 20 minutes remaining". I can't even walk in my yard anymore since its so wet and my feet sink. Does anyone know why it might be doing this?
Zero the clock and start over. That's a lot of water, depending on your area;the soil has become saturated and the seed will rot if you don't cut it back.