[gorichb]

Hi, re-posting this here

Rainbird model ESP-TM

I have 1 zone not working (zone 4). I replaced the valve outside yesterday but still no go. Was hoping it would be an easy repair. It will not work in auto or manual advance mode. Hoping I could get some pointers here to help me out. Could I run two zones together for the time being so I don't have to keep manually watering?
Thanks for the help:waving:

 

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

Have you eliminated a wiring problem possibility?

 

[gorichb]

I have tested the wires outside and believe they are Ok. Not sure which ones to test for inside on the controller.

 

[sheshovel]

Well you figure out what color wire that valve has and test that colored wire at the controller hook-up.
But if they are ok at the valve they should be ok at the controller I would think.

 

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

I have tested the wires outside and believe they are Ok. Not sure which ones to test for inside on the controller.

How did you test the wires outside?

 

[gorichb]

I tried testing the resistance between the green wire (zone 4 outside) and the white wire. Probably wrong I know, thats why I am asking here *trucewhiteflag*

thanks for the replys

 

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

Turn on the zone that isn't working. Go to the solenoid of that zone. Have one wire hooked up and touch the other two wires together and see if you hear or feel a click in the solenoid. Don't worry it's only 24 volts. I get shocked all the time, makes me laugh. If it doesn't click you have a wiring problem (either cut or bad splice) and hooking two valves together isn't going to do you any good. You can also test a solenoid at the clock but most of the time the clock isn't the issue but it should be eliminated as a cause.

 

[Mike Leary]

Jeez pigs, you like the cheap highs! OK, valve replaced...good, do we know
if the clock was putting out 24 volts & the ohm reading 15-50? Ohm it out
by pulling the wires out of the clock & testing. The other classic question to the client, " have the gardeners been doing any work around here?"

 

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

My experience with instructing people with voltmeters is that more often than not they don't know how to use it properly and it probably needs new batteries from the last time it was used. We know it is just one valve so I'm betting the clock is okay and it is an outside wiring problem.

Naties and 24 volts Nowhere but TEXAS:drinkup:

 

[DanaMac]

Goodness. Take the wires off of valve #4, switch them to any of valves #1-#3, and if it then turns on the valve you just switched the wires to, then it is not the wiring or the controller. It would be in the valve, most likely the solenoid.

 

[FIMCO-MEISTER]

Goodness. Take the wires off of valve #4, switch them to any of valves #1-#3, and if it then turns on the valve you just switched the wires to, then it is not the wiring or the controller. It would be in the valve, most likely the solenoid.

He said he already replced the valve Dana.

 

[DanaMac]

He said he already replced the valve Dana.

Oh yeah, my bad. Should've re-read the whole thing.

 

[gusbuster]

If you have an Ace hardware, Home Depot, Lowe's or Orchard Supply hardware close to where you live, go and buy a cheap volt meter. should be able to get one for under $20. Even target, wally world and k-mart have these for very cheap.

To test wire at clock, set volt meter @ volts not ohms, turn on that zone manually, take one point of meter wire(red) and touch the zone 4 output terminal, take the other point of meter wire(normally black) and touch the common terminal. You should at least get a 24 volt reading.

To test the wire itself, go to the suspect valve, one meter wire to the hot and one to the common wire(normally white), you should also get at least a 24 volt reading.

For testing the valve itself, depending on the brand, they have a bleed screw. The second you turn the bleed screw, there should be water flowing. By the way, only should need to turn the screw no more than a quarter circle turn. Just hand tight it as it may take a few seconds to shut off. On better valves, at the solenoid, you would have the ability to turn the water on and off without getting wet.

If your electrical checks out fine, then trouble shoot this way.

Do you really have 4 zones? I've seen it time and time again, where people wire timers not in a chroniclogically numeric order.

Is the water supply to the valve on?

 

[DanaMac]

OK going off my original post, just change things around. Take the wire out of terminal #4 in the controller, move wire from #3 into #4 terminal, If wire that is now in #4 terminal turns on #3 valve (original #3) then the timer is working fine and putting out current.

Or take wire #4 and put into terminal #3 that was apparently operating. If valve does not turn on, then probably in the wiring.

If you have a volt/ohm meter and know how to use it, that is easiest. If not, these are simple tricks to try.

 

[bicmudpuppy]

A decent meter can be had for around $5 from any discount bin. Harbour Freight has one for $4 in thier add this month for Father's Day. The bin at the local auto parts or Ace hardware usually will net you a working meter for $5-6.

 

[gorichb]

Hey thanks everyone for the replies
some real knowledgable info here, I feel like I know everything I need to now regarding these sprinklers, LoL
Here's what i got
I have voltage at the clock (24 + on all zones)
I checked the "ohms" each one reads almost identical to each other (28-30)
I checked the valve outside on another zone, It works fine.
OK, At this zone 4 when checking the voltage I have 24+ volts with the wire from the solenoid NOT attached. When i hook up the wire from the solenoid and read the voltage, it is 0 ZERO, nothing, nada. Even though this valve works when connected to another zone "wire". This is strange to me, what the heck is going on here?
Thanks allot guys for the help though!

 

[Mike Leary]

When i hook up the wire from the solenoid and read the voltage, it is 0 ZERO, nothing, nada. Even though this valve works when connected to another zone "wire".

Read the quote carefully, I think you'll find the problem.

 

[gorichb]

Actually
I think you misunderstood. The valve (solenoid) work fine when using another wire, lets say red wire. But when I hook up the green wire to it, the valve (solenoid) will not open.

With the wire from the solenoid connected to the green wire there is NO voltage, with the wire from the solenoid not connected there is voltage at the green wire.

 

[Wet_Boots]

You may have an intermittent fault. Got any spare wires in the cable? Remember that measuring voltage does nothing to help you read current, so 24 volts might be measured in the valve box, on a wire that moght not be able to carry any current.

Keep swapping wires or entire solenoids, and see what happens.