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rc30 drivetrain issues

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by swanny, Jan 18, 2011.

  1. swanny

    swanny LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    Anyone know what causes a track to favor the inside of the squirrel cage? I took the tracks off and checked for alignment of the cage and motor and it looks great (started the machine and spun the cages around with the motors...checked for wobble too). It's chewing up the inside corners of the lugs.

    Same machine seems to have weak motors (doesn't want to turn on pavement...top speed is only around 5 mph), so I pulled tracks and wheels to check for issues....found none. Am trying to get a hold of a pressure tester for the pilot block to see if the pump is up to snuff. Service manual doesn't give me a pressure reading. Anyone know what it might be? I know the auxilary should be in the 3000 psi range.

    Do the motors tend to just quit or do they die slowly?
  2. Ausman

    Ausman LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    just call the guys at the factory, they will help.
  3. swanny

    swanny LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    They were helpful, Ausman..thanks. 888-908-3739 for any help on Terex's machines.

    My service manual actually had the psi readings that I needed...just didn't see the page towards the front of the book.

    Turns out my drive motors are weak. Going to rebuild them. Some folks are only getting a few hundred hours out of them. Wish they had an upgrade to a super-heavy-duty motor. Hard to beat the usefulness of these small track machines.
  4. sshklov

    sshklov LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    I'm looking to rebuild my drive motors on my rc30. Is there a rebuild kit available for these motors? ASV sells a seal and shaft kit, but can you get parts for the entire motor?I'v read the R and R for the motor and seems not to hard to rebuild these units, there is timing that you have to worry about but not much else. Does anyone have the actual motor part number; the CharLynn Eaton number, the tag on both my motors was destroyed.
  5. Hollowellreid

    Hollowellreid LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 306

    The biggest problem I have seen is that the output shaft seal gets full of dirt/debris and fails. In the process it also wears a large groove into the shaft. I have had one rebuilt where new chrome on the shaft was enough to make up the difference, others required new welding.

    I will see if I can't get the number off the spare if it is still there. I recall a rebuild from ASV being about $700 and the rebuild locally running about $600. So not a huge difference.

    Like you said, I'm sure all parts are available (and probably at a better price than ASV) if you are willing to do the legwork in finding them from the OEM.
  6. swanny

    swanny LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    There are first gen motors up to a cut off serial number (last four digits 2xxx...I think on units up to 2005ish or so) ...these are the Eaton...more expensive, though if you can wait four months I found the best price from an Eaton distributor of $750 (I called 4 or 5 of them). Local hydro shops charge around $650 on average to do it....depending on whether you need a speedy sleeve on the output shaft and the center roller section (adds more costs).

    These units have what I thought was a case drain (small hose), but the Eaton guy told me it was a hot oil shuttle (similar to a case drain). My theory is the units get weak (in short hour duration) mostly from heat destroying the seals inside.

    Yes, dirt penetrates the outer dust sleeve and then causes premature inner seal failure. They are not difficult to rebuild yourself...seal kits for these units cost me $32 a piece through my local hydro guy. If the shaft is grooved on the inner seal...you can add another brass thrust washer to get the seal further down on the shaft. Seal kits come with a detailed instruction sheet for assembly.

    The Sauer units on the later RC30 units are much more reasonably priced new. The PT30 units still use these same drive motors.

    R&R time on the drive motors is around 4 to 6 hours a side depending on how much you do when you have it apart. I like to clean things up and paint while I'm in there.

    If you happen to reverse the drive motor hoses like I have done (after you get it all back together...I'm too lazy to mark them when i take them off), the simplest way I have found to correct them is to take the bolts off the ends of the axle pivot points and slide the entire track assembly outwards about 4" (providing the axle pivot points haven't seized up...I've gotten a couple frozen units freed with my porta power and a small pick to clear the grease cavity)...this gives you sufficient amounts of space inside the track to wrench the fittings off and swap them.
  7. swanny

    swanny LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    Forgot...the number for the Eaton motor is 167-0024-001.

    I saw a new one on Ebay that went for $170 bucks or so back in Dec. 2010.
  8. sshklov

    sshklov LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    Thanks for the information. I'm assuming that the Sauer units would be a compatible replacement for my Eaton motors on my older rc30.

    The problem that I am having with my ASV is that every once in a while I become paralyzed on the right side drive and if i'm going in a straight line I end up darting to the right. Its a momentary problem and it seems to just correct itself.

    my first attempt at trouble shooting this is to swap the drive motors to see if i can push the problem to the other side.

    I was thinking about putting in some TP on the two lines between the pump and the motor to measure the CW and CCW pressures which i'm assuming should be at 4000psi off that REXROTH pump.

    Even though I have not measured the charge pressure, it has to be there to release the brake cylinder (which I just removed from my machine because I think it is a useless feature and makes it really hard to clean that side of the track)

    Just not sure if its the pump acting up or the motor. I notice also that the REXRoth pumps have a CW and CCW pressure relief valve and was thinking about looking closer into that.

    Seems to me that this is really difficult to trouble shoot with out more high pressure test points!!!
  9. swanny

    swanny LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    I'm not sure the drive motors are interchangeable. Would be cool if they were.

    Swapping motors side to side is a lot of work to troubleshoot your issue. Could be in the control valving and not the motor.

    I'd call the ASV service techs and see what they say.
  10. sshklov

    sshklov LawnSite Member
    Messages: 11

    I was just talking with the hydraulics guy (Will) at Terex.

    Physically the drive motors would be compatible but the problem is that when Terex started using the Sauer motors the brakeing of the machine is accomplished with the motor not the way it used to be with the Eaton motor and the external hydrualic cyclinder that jams into the sproket.

    There would be some changes that you would have to make to the case drain pluming on the Sauer motor.

    Also the fellow suggested that I could move the 1/4 pilot controls from one Rexroth pump to the other to see if i could move the problem from one side to the other. These lines are long enough to actually just swap from one pump to the other.

    Terex is actually out there to help if you need them...

    As far as the part number for the motor; it sure seems to be confusing because Charlynn Eaton currently uses a 24 digit number to fully describe their 4000 compact series line of motors. The eaton dealer up here is trying to see if the 167-0024-001 is a part number that he can get parts for?

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