rc30 drivetrain issues

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by swanny, Jan 18, 2011.

  1. merbesfield

    merbesfield LawnSite Member
    from Atlanta
    Messages: 18

    The Char-Lynn pump mentioned on previous posts that continues to break and has limited availability. Wanted to know what others have done.
  2. willau

    willau LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    Hi does anyone own a pt 30 2009 model , do they have drive motor problems too am looking at buying one any advice would be appreciated.
  3. Hollowellreid

    Hollowellreid LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 306

    These machines are pieces of junk in the build quality department. We have had older rc30's and now a brand new terex pt30 and it is full of headaches also. That being said I think a lot of the bigger issues have been resolved.

    In 265 hours problems have included-
    Battery failed
    Alternator failed and killed battery
    Fuel gauge
    Fuel sending unit
    Hydraulic hard lines
    Hydraulic soft lines
    Bolts and pins randomly rattle and fall out, as have a few latches and more.

    The machine has seen pretty limited and soft landscape work.

    When it's on the up the machine works great and is very useful, just lacking build quality. I think they almost always have. It's what you might expect from a cub cadet lawn mower from home depot, not a 30k piece of construction equipment.
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  4. greyim

    greyim LawnSite Member
    Messages: 37

    Anyone out there tried beefing up the "inner" squirrel cage sprocket ? This seems to be a wear point for me and tiresome to replace....
  5. swanny

    swanny LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    I had one w/ enclosed cab, sold it to a local guy @ 90 hrs. a few years back, he just had it stolen last month with roughly 240 hrs.. Had no issues that I knew of except the typical fuel filter gelling.
  6. carlriv

    carlriv LawnSite Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 99

    We just developed a problem today, looking for help. For a while when pushing the drive control straight the left track seemed to go a little slower than the right. Well now it is significant as in you have to keep correcting with a left turn every 5 feet.... It seems to work fine in reverse. I would think its a bad pump or motor, but with it working fine in reverse I cant imagine thats the case????
  7. carlriv

    carlriv LawnSite Member
    from Mass
    Messages: 99

    we checked to make sure that the key way is ok and it looks fine... but in the process we found it seems that the right track may be lacking pressure. When going straight against a wall the left track will dig, but the right track will remain still. In reverse it seems to be the same thing (even though when driving in reverse it appears to operate correctly) so I imagine either the pump for the right side is putting out low pressure or the motor on that side is tired??? Are there dump valves on the pumps? Do anyone know the manufacturer and model numbers for the pumps and motors? I would like to try to look for a schematic of both the pumps and motors before I take it to a shop.
  8. swanny

    swanny LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    Drive motor most likely is tired allowing the hydro fluid to escape through it. I think it's 6 to 700 bucks for a hydro shop to rebuild.
  9. BREAULT69

    BREAULT69 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 12

    Purchased a 2001 model with 900 hrs 3 mo ago. Day after purchase right side drive motor puked oil all over my shop floor. Took motor apart to replace seal, found out seal was nt common. Ordered new seal, polished shaft up, soaked old seal in brake fluid overnight, reassembled and finished excavation job. New seal kit came in, installed it (used green loctite & activator-bought at Fastenal). No leak for 80 hrs now so must have done it right. Have had bearings fail in 4 bogey wheels. Easy to fix and I get sealed bearings from a local supplier for $8 ea. Will replace them all during winter. Most have damaged rear side, snap ring out, seal protector dangling. I toss them since I'm putting in sealed ball bearings anyway. Developed a crazy rattle at certain midrange rpm. traced to loose bellhousing (adapter plate) on engine. Also pump mount bolts loose. Will pull engine tomorrow & correct loose bellhousing with loctite and impact wrench. Will also loctite pump mount bolts and recheck every 100 hrs. If they loosen again I will torque down and spot weld them. My understanding is if these bolts get loose the plastic pump coupler will wear fast or fracture. Don't need that. All in all it requires about 1 hr of maintenance for every 20 hrs of operation. Seems kind of high, but I think replacing all bogey bearings and fixing the tendency for critical bolts to vibrate loose will help that ratio in the future. Having said all that, I will now say THIS THING IS AMAZING! (when its working). It's not often that I'm this impressed with a machines capabilities. When digging (tooth bucket) it thinks it's a T-190. Maneuverability and operator visibility are outstanding, however doesn't like to zero turn with pressure on very front, and very rear of tracks. That's just how it is. You learn how to make it work. I operate it side hills with the inclinometer buried past 30 deg. Keep bucket low, no issue. Pilot controls are huge leg/knee/ankle savers. Ride is super smooth, rarely spill my coffee. Built a counterweight that goes in rear reciever. With 400# counterweight I lift 1200# pallet of block no problem. Lays sod rolls like a champ, sod company custom rolls 800# rolls for me at no extra charge. Built a grapple bucket to do tear out work. Thought I was gonna need to rent a bigger machine to tear out some large poured retaining walls. Not needed, RC30 destroyed them. Ordered a 48" Harley rake that should be here soon, have a feeling this thing will be a seedbed prepping wonder. Also plan to enclose cab (already has factory heat) to plow snow. The thing is easy to load/haul, fuel efficient, comfortable, and really makes you forget it's a mini sized machine. I've used Dingo's, Bobcat MT's and 440b's. They don't even compare to this thing. My advice- own one if you are a decent mechanic or have access to one. They seem easy to do most repairs on, which is good. Cuz I know for a fact after 1000 hrs, they need alot of attention.
  10. greyim

    greyim LawnSite Member
    Messages: 37

    That's alot of shop time, great your able to diy it all :dancing:

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