Red thread... Need help guys.

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by ProStreetCamaro, May 22, 2013.

  1. ProStreetCamaro

    ProStreetCamaro LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,289

    I am not an applicator but I do know quite a bit about lawn care. Been cutting since I was 14 and am now 34. Anyway my wife and I bought this house 3 springs ago just before the grass started growing. Here we are into our 3rd spring and I am getting red thread creeping back into my lawn again already this year. This will make 3 years in a row I get taken over with red thread.

    My lawn is a hair over 2 acres. So far this year I have applied lebanon 19-0-6 slow release with dimension about a month ago. I am cutting twice a week at 3". In the summer I cut at 3.5" to 4" once a week once things start to slow down. I do not bag so the nutrients get recycled back into the lawn. I do not understand why I keep getting this and my 70 cutting customers hardly ever get it.

    Here is a pic from last year when it was really going wild. I do not want to let it get like this again. I need to nip this in the butt before it gets any worse. What products have you guys found works best on red thread and how often will I need to apply it. I have a 15 gallon tow behind boom sprayer that I use to do blanket apps for weed control that I can use to spray my lawn. I was thinking Eagle 20EW.

    Here is my local supplier. This is the list of fungicides they sell. Take a look and help me make a plan of attack to get this under control. :cry:

    Before anybody even says it..... I know in the picture the spots look brown. Before the areas turn brown the blades curl and turn red and I can see the red threads extending off the blades of grass. A friend of mine is the head guy in charge of a fairway lawns in arkansas and he doesnt deal with northern turf and doesnt get red thread down there but he keeps telling me to fertilize it heavy and let it grow out. My lawn already grows extremely fast and I really dont want to fertilize it more than I already do.

    Last edited: May 22, 2013
  2. rcreech

    rcreech Sponsor
    Male, from OHIO
    Messages: 6,162

    No fung needed

    Just apply a good nitrogen product and let it grow out
    Posted via Mobile Device

    RABBITMAN11 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,474

    Try 16-2-3 screamin green does a great job. Plus less top growth. Ask Barry about it and where you can buy it.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  4. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Platinum Member
    from nc
    Messages: 4,946

    Hard to tell from the pic but is it a reddish orange powder that comes off the grass blades easy! Looks like rust to me but we are in a warm season area and don't have but 15% cool season turf.

    Like rod said. I'd save the money on fungicide and hpkeep if it fertilized good. Mow at the proper height and it should grow right out with little if any damage to the leaf blade.
  5. Mark Oomkes

    Mark Oomkes LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 15,135

    Some turf varieties\cultivars are horribly susceptible to red thread. I would guess yours is one.

    I'd try some organic fert, stay away from the synthetic and see how that goes. It's going to take a few apps before it starts working.

    If you start applying fungicide to your lawn, you're not going to stop until it slows down this fall. Every 21 days for the most part.
  6. ProStreetCamaro

    ProStreetCamaro LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,289

    So it looks like the general consensus is a good fertilizer. That screaming green looks interesting. I wonder where I can get it here locally?
  7. ProStreetCamaro

    ProStreetCamaro LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,289

    I wish I knew exactly what cultivar the majority of my lawn was. I know it is some type of tall fescue but I dont know what the previous owners service company used. Last fall I did aerate and seed it heavily with a 90% tall fescue blend that contained 3 different types of top rated tall fescue and 10% Thermal Blue. The germination rate was excellent.
  8. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,673

    Perennial ryegrass is very susceptible to red thread--especially the older, cheaper, low-quality types. Perhaps your lawn is partially perennial rye. You need a strobin-type fungicide. That could get extremely costly after a few treatments 3 weeks apart. Compass or Heritage.

    Be sure you understand how to control water to reduce red thread. You cannot control rain or hot humid nights. Feel free to experiment with your irrigation. My suggestions: Keep humidity and time of leaf wetness to a minimum. Never water at night. Irrigate only between noon and 4 pm to avoid nighttime humidity. Never water every day. Try to cut irrigation to twice per week using more time per zone, (three per week during dry spells).

    In the long run, you may be better off to resod the important areas with a more fungus resistant tall fescue. Overseed is good but the percent of new fungus resistant grass which establishes itself may be too low to help you.
    Perhaps "Venture" tall fescue would fit your needs. Its a newer type introduced in 2011.Red thread resistance is listed as "Good".
    Second choice is Coronna, introduced in 2008. Red thread resistance listed as "excellent".
    Last edited: May 23, 2013
  9. ProStreetCamaro

    ProStreetCamaro LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,289

    2 acres + well water = no irrigation. Almost nobody in this state has irrigation systems. Out of our 70 cutting customers I think 2 has a sprinkler system and only one of those works and they rarely use it.

    I plan to aerate and seed every fall for a few years. I want to get some newer varieties of fescue and mainly I want to get more and more thermal blue in my lawn for the self repairing qualities. I put my main focus on the front lawn. Trying to treat 2 acres gets real pricey even with my commercial discounts we get from our supplier.
  10. jbturf

    jbturf LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,502

    Cut back on the spring time N or use more slow release N, I'm willing to bet at least 70% of the N u put down was fast release, no good in spring. Nearly any fungicide labelled for red thread will help
    Posted via Mobile Device

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