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Redmax BCZ2401S rotor and coil assembly "gap"

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by clif, Apr 30, 2010.

  1. clif

    clif LawnSite Member
    Messages: 135

    Does anyone know the correct way to set the gap between the rotor and coil assembly on this model trimmer? I had to disassemble it earlier today to clean out the engine, and I just want to make sure I am getting all the "spark" to the plug that I can. I was told that this gap is critical to the amount of spark your plug gets... (don't know if it affects voltage or amperage or both).
  2. Merkava_4

    Merkava_4 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,431

    Yeah that's easy. Loosen the mounting screws to the coil and push the coil up all the way. Re-tighten the screws. Rotate the rotor around until the magnets embedded in the rotor are directly under the coil. Place a .010" feeler gage leaf on top of the rotor where the magnets are. Now loosen the screws to the coil. The magnets in the rotor will suck the coil down to the rotor, trapping the feeler gage in between. Now tighten the screws to the coil. Rotate the rotor a little ways so that you can get your feeler gage out. You're done.
    Last edited: May 1, 2010
  3. clif

    clif LawnSite Member
    Messages: 135

    Hey thanks a bunch Merkava_4, that is easy. Just curious, is .010" a standard gap distance for all trimmers and other small engines, or is this specific to redmax?
  4. Merkava_4

    Merkava_4 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,431

    The .010" was just a good guess on my part because it's widely used on a lot of small engines.
    You might call up Redmax on Monday and get the exact specified air gap if you want ...
  5. rotti1968

    rotti1968 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 169

    Another good rule of thumb on air gap is the thickness of a business card will work on most engines, or the thickness of a microfiche card folded in half.

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