Redoing lawn

Champak

LawnSite Member
Redoing backyard...looking like a jungle with the weeds and unwanted plants. Kids will be playing on the lawn once redone. I bought a bunch of round up a couple years ago before I found out about the cancer and have some left over. Recently I bought 45% vinegar and diluted to 20% and used it on a section and it worked, but I was reading that the roots remain strong so they will grow back.

So if I can't use round up because it stays in the soil, and I can't use vinegar because they will grow back, what do I use?

Thanks.

NY region.
 

RigglePLC

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Grand Rapids MI
Actually, weeds cannot grow back from roots--only if they have rhizomes. Vinegar plus short cut will control most weeds--particularly any crabgrass and annual weeds will be killed by a hard winter. Hand pull a few as necessary.
Roundup does not persist in the soil. If you do not want to use Roundup, then you may wish to use a bit of diquat as a non-selective grass and weed killer. Then I suggest overseed with a modern high density bluegrass-ryegrass mixture. This to help crowd-out most weeds. Of course, in the coming year, if you apply plenty of fertilizer and water that will be a huge advantage.
Natural organic fertilizer, will be helpful; maybe a bit of lime if a soil test shows a need.
A weed-free lawn is unnatural. A few dandelions and clover are normal and were absolutely fine before herbicides were invented about 1939.
 

YourGreenUp

LawnSite Member
Location
Ohio
Apparently there are studies linking Diquat use and Parkinson's disease.
As Riggle stated, Roundup does not persist in the soil. The length of time it takes for glyphosate to degrade is debatable. Anywhere from 3 to 249 days. Just as soil conditions vary throughout, it would depend on your soil's microorganism population, environmental conditions and the amount applied.
Depending on your size of lawn, pulling weeds could be on your to-do list. Once your grass thickens, it won't a big chore.
 

Crazy 4 grass

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Minnesota
Wait until September.

Kill everything with roundup.

Grass seed fert and water heavily three times a day until mid October.

You'll have a thick lush lawn going into winter and will be amazed in the spring.

Keep kids off lawn in sep and oct , they'll be off of it anyways all winter so you'll have eight months for the kids off the lawn
 

Crazy 4 grass

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Minnesota
If you spray last week of August and give it about a week it'll be dead beginning of September.

Cut the dead stuff on the lowest setting of your mower no need to worry about removing the clippings or moving any of the Dead material.

Just drag a rake around to loosen up the soil spread seed at five pounds per thousand square feet and drag the rake around to work it into the soil again.
Add your starter fertilizer and start watering keep it continuously moist until the grass is like 2 inches tall.

Once it's moist it has to stay moist until after germination or the seed is toast.

There is no need to remove the dead grass and weeds you can seed directly into that and that dead matter will actually help for water retention for your new seeds.

How many square foot area are you talking about doing?

I typically do about a five to ten thousand square foot area each fall at my personal residence
 

phasthound

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Mt. Laurel, NJ
If you spray last week of August and give it about a week it'll be dead beginning of September.

Cut the dead stuff on the lowest setting of your mower no need to worry about removing the clippings or moving any of the Dead material.

Just drag a rake around to loosen up the soil spread seed at five pounds per thousand square feet and drag the rake around to work it into the soil again.
Add your starter fertilizer and start watering keep it continuously moist until the grass is like 2 inches tall.

Once it's moist it has to stay moist until after germination or the seed is toast.

There is no need to remove the dead grass and weeds you can seed directly into that and that dead matter will actually help for water retention for your new seeds.

How many square foot area are you talking about doing?

I typically do about a five to ten thousand square foot area each fall at my personal residence
The only thing I would add to this advice is to use high quality seed.
 
OP
C

Champak

LawnSite Member
Thanks all for the reply.

@RigglePLC
Well, it looks like every weed in my yard has rhizomes because they all come back if I don't yank the root. I can tolerate a few dandelions, I hate the clover, they especially seem to multiply fast by looking at neighbors yards. I got a couple this year and before I could blink they turned into large patches. I bought killers that claim they target clovers, but didn't seem to do anything to them.

@Crazy 4 grass
Are there plants that roundup won't kill? Because I did spray it on everything two days ago, and there are a few that look like they just brushed it.
If I don't remove all the dead stuff won't that just produce a dead floor of thatch that I have to deal with later?
I believe my backyard is roughly 50'x150'.

@phasthound
I have been using Scott's turff builder sun and shade https://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotts-3-lb-Turf-Builder-Grass-Seed-Sun-and-Shade-Mix-18225/203760874. Would that be considered quality seed?

One other question, in doing some research I came across grass seed heads which I always thought were weeds. Everything I read seemed to advocate cutting them down and getting rid of them with no explanation. Why would that be a good idea, wouldn't the lawn reproducing and getting lush be a good thing? Could these ever be mistaken for a foreign invader weed/grass?
 

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