Removal of brushcutter blades???

Discussion in 'Tractors' started by turfcaster, Sep 18, 2007.

  1. turfcaster

    turfcaster LawnSite Member
    Messages: 49

    Hope this the right forum.

    I mow this 25+ acre farm with their Kubota and 4 foot brushcutter. Anyhow the blades are totally blunt now ,they dont appear to be damaged at all (no nicks ,bends etc.)amazing! It still cuts but obviously needs sharpening.

    I think the brand of the cutter is Pittsburgh or something like that. Its orange.

    Do I remove the blade assemblies from the spindle like a z-turn and most mowers? or do I remove the blades somehow off the piece the blades are actually attached to?

    The blades move fairly freely on the ends of a center piece thats attached to the spindle. I guess it cuts almost like a giant weedeater with steel blades instead of monofilament of course. Are all brushcutters like that or similar?

    Are they going to be a pita to remove?

    I have been mowing with it for about a year. Everything I know about operating it I have figured out on my own,like the many adjustments for the deck. It was freshly serviced and set up when I first started using it ,so I just try to adjust it by common sense and memory and past experience with normal commercial mowers. I THINK I have it pretty well dialed in.

    The only thing that has broken since I have been operating it was the fuel filter housing on the tractor. The clear cup like part cracked. Simple fix.

    Any advice or wisdom on brush mowing would be greatly appreciated.

    I think I do a fine job with it but I would love to have more knowledge.
  2. hosejockey2002

    hosejockey2002 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,195

    It's normal for brushhog-type blades to swivel. That way when you hit a rock, stump, cat, possum or what have you the blade just swivels rather than exploding. It's not necessary to remove them to sharpen them- just lift it high with the 3-point and BLOCK IT UP- those things are heavy and will squish you like a bug- and hit the blades with a small angle grinder. Don't worry too much about blade balance because they are not like finish mower blades. Only when the blades are badly worn or damaged do they need to be replaced.
  3. turfcaster

    turfcaster LawnSite Member
    Messages: 49

    Thank you hosejockey,but I really want to take them off and have them sharpened. They are super dull ,totally blunt. I would have to grind forever with a hand grinder. I also want to make sure I can get them off. If I have trouble removing them now imagine how hard they will be to remove later when I have to remove them.

    I know they are supposed to swivel, just was curious if thats how all or most brushcutters were designed.

    Do I remove the blades at the swivel point or in the center at the spindle?

    I have only looked under the mower a handful of times, to make sure things are going smoothly under there , once to see what the blades looked like ,and to remove a garden hose .
  4. jd270

    jd270 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 102

    you take them off at the swivel they can be a bear to change the last time i replaced a set on my bushhog it took my heavy 3/4 air gun and heat to get them off i sharpen mine on the mower all the time it doesent take that long with an grinder
  5. turfcaster

    turfcaster LawnSite Member
    Messages: 49

    Right on. I just noticed today that it has a hole/window on top for access to the nut for removal. Like I said before ,its not my mower so I dont see it everyday. Although ,I am the only one who operates it.

    The bush hog is a Field General and I am told its about 1.5 to 2 years old.

    I wonder if I could break the nuts loose with a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench or breakover bar. I will have to bring my own tools ,because al the tools there are more or less toys. I really dont want to have to bring a compressor and impact wrench. I guess I will just have to try it with my manual tools first.
  6. DiyDave

    DiyDave LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,695

    What I normally do for my bush hog mower is to take a 3/4" drive socket, and drop it onto the nut through the access door, onto the nut, then add enough extensions so that your knuckles don't hit the top of the deck, then attach 3/4 inch breaker bar, and turn left (CCW). If you need to, add a 4' cheater bar to the end of the breaker bar for more leverage. Once you get the nut turning, you can switch to the ratchet for more speed. After you remove the nut, use the ratchet handle to tap the bolt through the bar and stump jumper, if so equipped. Don't Booger up the threads by missing the center of the bolt! Generally what happens is that the bolt, blade drops after 1 properly placed tap. Don't lose the bolt, or any lock washer that may be above the bar, below the nut! When you go to reassemble the thing, place bolt through blade, align the key in the pin with the keyway in the bar, and insert both straight up, then remove your hand from the outward edge of the blade, the lateral pressure of the blade's weight will hold it long enough to get the lockwasher and nut back on. On a Bushhog model 205 you need a 1-3/4 " socket wrench. Also if you want to make removal easier, coat the inside of nut with never-seize lube. Also, the safest way to work on these is jacked up and blocked, or all the way down, from the side of an old building footing, allowing access and stability!

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