Renovation Help

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by TNGrassCutter, Apr 9, 2011.

  1. TNGrassCutter

    TNGrassCutter LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,321

    My business has mainly focused on mowing and some minor landscaping and maintenance so far but I am looking to expand into more things like fertilizing, pesticides, and renovations. I am in the process of getting a pesticide applicator's license. I am wanting to renovate my yard just as kind of a "practice" and confidence booster. I have done aeration, and also sprayed glyphosate for years on our family's farm, (not for paid service). What I am wanting to do is get rid of all of the junky grasses and Bermuda in my lawn and have a solid turf type tall fescue or something similar, then eventually some perennial rye for the cool season. I am just looking for some pointers on how to go about this because I want to learn, also I have been reading a lot online, and a few books, also taking Ag science classes at the local University, but would like some real world opinions from the pros of this type of work. I've attached pictures of my lawn now in case you need to see. Also I live in middle TN if that info is needed. Thanks


  2. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    If you have dumped on CG preventer, forget about overseeding... If not, you best practice would be - overseeding all summer long...

    Document the arrival of CG, when and where... play around all Summer, then this Fall, rip it up and plant a proper yard...
  3. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,793

    Bermuda is tough to kill. Plan to spray gly more than once. Do this in early August to be sure you are ready to reseed about Sept 1. Why would you want ryegrass? Not suitable if temps often exceed 90. Take a look at the major seed firms and choose a top-quality disease-resistant tall fescue. Brown patch can be devastating. Lateral spread type is better--self healing. "Spyder LS" tall fescue comes to mind. Mix the fescue with about 10 or 20 percent Kentucky bluegrass to add more creeping and self-healing properties.
  4. PerfectEarth

    PerfectEarth LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,734

    Live with it for another summer. TOTAL kill, soil topdress and seed in September.
  5. TNGrassCutter

    TNGrassCutter LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,321

    I was thinking ryegrass to keep it green during the cool season, if that's a no no I'm all ears for more suggestions. Thanks
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  6. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,793

    If you are planning on Tall fescue, then there is no need to overseed during the cool season. Tall fescue is a cool-season grass: it does not turn brown (much) in cold weather, like Bermuda does.
  7. Skipster

    Skipster LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,086

    There is some good advice here (although I would stay away from the ryegrass and KBG -- the only cool-season grass that grows tolerably in middle TN is tall fescue and it will stay green in the winter). Be sure to test your soil before beginning this process. Remember that there are two times to seed cool-season grasses in TN -- September and next Spetember. So, you will want to spray your lawn with glyphosate and fusilade (this will kill everything that is growing there now) beginning in August, about a week after fertilizing it with 0.5# N/M. The fertilizer will ensure that the current cover is actively growing and will take up and metabolize the herbicide as efficiently as possible. If using glyphosate only, spray once a week for three weeks. If using glyphosate + fusilade, spray once a week for two weeks.

    One week after your final application (or anytime in September), plant tall fescue (Turbo, Falcon IV, Monet, DaVinci, Axiom, or Tulsa cultivars) at 6 to 8#/M using a slit seeder. Some guys like to spread the seed with a rotary spreader, but remember that seed-to-soil contact is necessary for optimal germination, so some way to incorporate the seed into the ground is best.

    After seeding, fertilize using 0.75 to 1# N/M (quickly available source), along with whatever else is needed according to your soil test, and water the area lightly and often enough to keep the seedbed moist, but not wet.

    That would be the quick and dirty method, but you could get more in-depth if you wish. I like to think of establishment as my opportunity to get as many things right as possible. If you have high spots, low spots, poorly draining areas, or rocky areas (as can be common in middle TN), establishment is the easiest time to fix those problems.

    Good luck and enjoy your project!
  8. TNGrassCutter

    TNGrassCutter LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,321

    Thanks that's some really good info.
    Posted via Mobile Device

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