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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This blower has run perfectly for about a year of light work. Then over about an hour and a half it started bogging down at high RPMs and got progressively worse.

I checked and cleaned fuel filter - although the dealer said unlikely the problem and to check muffler screen. It was perfectly clean. Then checked and ran without air filter. Nothing changed. Has new fuel.

Only thing I have noticed is the choke "knob" - if I turn it slowly clockwise as I increase the throttle it runs okay. Am I imagining that knob used to feather up as I increased RPMs on its own. Maybe this is a clue as to the problem?

Any other suggestions?
 

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Pull the fuel filters and replace. Might not hurt to pull the valve cover and check valve lash.
 
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Thanks - I will order one and give it a try. However, you said "filters" - is that just a typo? There is only one, isn't there?
Can’t remember for sure, my BR600 has two, can’t remember what my 800 has but I thought two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No I haven't adjusted the valves. That would be my next step. But I didn't think that the symptoms pointed to that. Namely that it would be running fine one start, and then slowly over the next 1 1/2 hours it slowly got worse at the high end. Then the next day, it wouldn't even get up to half speed without bogging down.

Does that sound like valves? I would think that the valves getting out of adjustment would happen over a much longer length of time. And it still starts fine. And like I mentioned - if I turn that choke knob slowly along with opening up the throttle, it will get up to almost full speed.
 

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It's more than likely the valves. If they've never been adjusted, it's probably the issue since it seems like you did everything else. That is exactly what happened to my BR600 years ago. Dealer "fixed" it and charged @$100 and it did the same thing 2 days later. Took it in and they said it must really be dirty, that will be another $100!! I fixed it by putting it in the attic of the garage and bought an Echo 770T. It never gave me anymore problems.
 
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It's more than likely the valves. If they've never been adjusted, it's probably the issue since it seems like you did everything else. That is exactly what happened to my BR600 years ago. Dealer "fixed" it and charged @$100 and it did the same thing 2 days later. Took it in and they said it must really be dirty, that will be another $100!! I fixed it by putting it in the attic of the garage and bought an Echo 770T. It never gave me anymore problems.
Adjusting the valves is a 5 minute fix, its very easy and quick to do yourself.
 

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Adjusting the valves is a 5 minute fix, its very easy and quick to do yourself.
I wouldn't know as there were no instructiions in my BR600 manual to even adjust them. I guess I'll get a chance to learn because a guy is giving me his Shindiawa with valves in exchange for work. He's in his 80's and can't handle it anymore.
 
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Does Shindaiwa have a 4-stroke engine?
That's what the guy said. May have been before Echo took over?? I had 2 Shindy's between the BR600 and 770T, one was recalled under warranty for an over-tightend head bolt that caused a crack. The replacement Shindy was stolen after I had it a month!!! I don't think those were 4's.
 

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The vavle train breaks in loose. Meaning the clearance increases. That causes the compression release to be ineffective. It’ll yank the rope out of you hand.
Are you experiencing that?
If they tightened, you might have bigger problems.
From your description, its not a valve lash problem.
Its running lean.

If the filters are clean, it might just need carb adjustment.
If its fairly new, it has the small hex head adjustment screws.
Open them 1/4 turn at a time. Check response.

If the primer is working worse than usual, the internal screen
might be clogged with schmutz.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Primer and starting it up and idling is all working perfectly.

Can anyone tell me if that choke knob is supposed to move (feather up) on its own when you go to full throttle? I thought I remembered seeing that happen.

If not, and if turning that knob "up" while throttling up makes it run better, wouldn't that possibly indicate it is running lean and by manually "choking it" gradually, I am running it richer?

I guess I am off to NAPA to buy some valve feeler gauges.
 

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Adjusting the valves is a 5 minute fix, its very easy and quick to do yourself.
Well, that was 15yrs ago?? Since it was a commercial machine and had more than paid for itself, I moved on. I agree it is simple, but when one has 35 engines to maintain...., I'll pass on valve-trains in my 2 cycle equipment.
 

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Primer and starting it up and idling is all working perfectly.

Can anyone tell me if that choke knob is supposed to move (feather up) on its own when you go to full throttle? I thought I remembered seeing that happen.

If not, and if turning that knob "up" while throttling up makes it run better, wouldn't that possibly indicate it is running lean and by manually "choking it" gradually, I am running it richer?

I guess I am off to NAPA to buy some valve feeler gauges.
Choke gauge should not move on it's own. If it is, that will certainly bog you done with a rich condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Choke reduces air, adds gas....if you have to choke it to throttle up it is not getting enough gas....clean/adjust carb, find any restrictions in gas lines (pin holes?)......
That is what I thought. If I can get it to rev higher by choking it, I thought that would tip the scales to lack of fuel as opposed to valve adjustment. Thanks for all the replies.
 

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That is what I thought. If I can get it to rev higher by choking it, I thought that would tip the scales to lack of fuel as opposed to valve adjustment. Thanks for all the replies.
I'd open the High side jet on the carburetor about 1/4 turn, you'll need a special tool.
See what that does.
 
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