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Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by ZeroSignal, Mar 18, 2011.
The idea is to get the pre-em down, and the barrier active BEFORE the crabs come.
We used to spot spray Crabex. 0,05% Fenoxaprop-P-ethyl (Monsanto)
When the grass is actively growing, we just sprayed it onto the crab grass
on a dry day and it died.
1 quart treats 650 square feet. We don't blanket entire areas with herbicides up
here any longer. Some of us have to rely on the ground water for drinking.
Have you checked your pH?
Crabgrass simply says that the soil is low in calcium and that it cannot support decay starting with actinomycetes molds. It is usually possible to adjust the system in a year or two, putting a little calcium lime and sulfur or gypsum on the soil in order to restructure the pH. As this is accomplished, most of the infestation disipates, virtually rotting away.
Written by-Charles Walters
Weeds, control without poisons
Published by Acres U.S.A. Metairie, Louisiana
just because it was seeded last season doesn't mean it could of germ. last season. it could of been seeded to late, dorm. seeding. for a homeowner who isn't afraid to go out in the yard and do some work can crabgrass isn't that bad. don't put the cart before the horse help him actually have a yard before he has to worry about weeds.
In this part of the country, spring is not the time to establish a great lawn. This is the time to get a handle on the weeds, so you are well prepared for late summer, early fall, which is the prime time to sow cool season grasses. I say, do the pre-em, and let the grass you planted last season, spread naturally. Then do your seeding at the optimum time. Once more, just my opinion, and what I would do.