FYI: Voltage does not come from the ignition magneto on that engine. It has an alternator even though it is pull start. Something I would have thought that you would know and understand in order to conduct electrical tests on it. Now knowing you did not know that, I question whether you were conducting tests correctly.Clue me in on this one. Having "no idea"? FYI voltage is induced by magnet attached to flywheel. Where does electrical energy come from, to activate blade clutch, if it isn't from the energy created by the magneto? With no battery, no alternator? Pull start motor only.
Just so you know, I know what a magneto is and how it works. Yes, it supplies electrical pulses. That's it. It fires the spark plug. It DOES NOT create electricity for use in the rest of the wiring system. It's ONLY function is ignition/spark. I know all about point ignition and magneto ignition. Don't need any explanation.Just so you know, a magneto DOES create voltage, technically it supplies pulses of high voltage. Other electronic parts in the circuit are using that magneto voltage to supply current to the electric clutch so it can move the blades. The original Briggs points-style magnetos had about 6 -8 volts on the primary when pulling the starter rope and around 300 - 400 volts on primary when actually running.
That is correct, YOU did not. If you read, I was quoting brian.joe.kelly, not you. (eye roll)the electric PTO, I never stated anything about an "engagement" motor, Also I never used the word "solenoid" in any of my original threads here. You're projecting words on me, which I never stated.
Again.... I was quoting brian.joe.kelly, not you.Yeah, I agree that "safety interlock system isn't working correctly". That statement and 99 cents might get you a cup of coffee. Although all comments are appreciated, yours are no better than any of the other posts, basically which are as good as a needle in a haystack right now. I'll let the Scag mechanic confirm that I have a bad wiring harness somewhere. I'll let you know what the professional Scag mechanics find out for me this week. I'm 95% confident that I've already ruled out neutral switches and PTO switch at this point, so far spending about $100 in parts that I didn't actually need but sometimes you get lucky with the shotgun approach.
I'm glad you took it to a "professional Scag mechanic". After giving a bit of thought to this whole deal, I bet you find out that you have/had a bad Regulator/Rectifier on the motor. Trying to solve an electrical issue over the internet for someone else is ALWAYS a "needle in a haystack". I don't know why people think it would be anything other than that. I literally can't see your machine, or conduct tests on it, and I have no idea if you are conducting the tests properly. I don't even know for sure 100% that the information you are giving is true. If you conducted a test improperly, then report information back to us, it is true information to YOU, but not actually true since the test was not conducted properly. I think it is just awesome you finally took it to a professional. Let us know what they find.
And if you are going to harp on someone about something they said, make sure they were actually talking to you, as in quoting you, not someone else. A "shotgun" approach is NEVER the way to solve a problem. Yep.... sometimes you get lucky. Most of the time you just waste your time and create even more problems replacing components that were not bad. Problem is compounded if you bought parts via the internet and not at the dealer, because in the case of electrical parts, particularly safety switches, you may receive the wrong part. Two different seat switches for example can look exactly the same, except one is a N/O and one a N/C switch. But by visual inspection they are exactly the same. Only when you test the switch with a DVOM do you find that is is incorrect. And that is only if you know the difference between the two types of switches and know which one your machine actually uses. It's a sh!t show trying to diagnose electrical issue online.