with parker pumps they generally place the model tag at the back end of the pump oppisite of the wheel hub, its generaly the are that stays the most clean

 

So wheel motors design are secret? How about what kind of test might be performed on them? I still got a hesitation on one and I know how to test the pump but .....if it shows good then I conclude it is a wheel motor?

 

i dont know a whole lot about these hydrolic systems..but have fiddled with them for the past few years, it's usually air in the system that causes a hesitation.. happens alot during a broken hose on our stander's, and some of these take some time to get the air purged. best bet is to take it to a small engine mechanic that can do a pressure test to get a better diagnosis. Or like they were explaining in a recent thread, lift the rear end and run the hydrolics for about 20-30 minutes in both directions..make sure the fluid is toped off, and work the bypass valve (whatever alows you to move the mower while not running) open and close...not sure if its an exact science but these things might help

i know from our mowers that anything Parker hydrolics is a pain to find any info or even parts for..took me over 5 months to find rebuild seal kits for our Parker motors, Parker themselves couldnt even help me. went through 20 something companies across the US before finding someone who could help me lol

 

You can test the motor with the flow meter used to test the pumps. You plumb it inline with the outlet side of the motor for forward direction. So you want it in the line that is returning fluid back to the pump. You mark the tire in 4 equidistant locations. Run the machine up against a solid object. Gradually move the stick on that side forward without the tire moving and check for flow. There should not be any flow...if there is the motor is leaking. Check at all 4 locations. Its a PITA test to do because the flow meter is not easy to read especially while trying to run the machine and I dont think the marks around 0 are as good as in the higher flow ranges.

The other test on motors is you should be able to spin them in the forward direction smoothly. And they should be difficult to impossible to spin backwards. This is with the machine off the ground.

I just had one that passed all these tests...put a wheel motor on and it was fixed. So I really dont have alot of faith in these tests.

Hydrogear you should be able to find parts breakdowns for easily if you really want to take it apart. If its Parker, good luck. We dont delve into the pumps/motors. During the season, if its bad replace it.

 

You can test the motor with the flow meter used to test the pumps. You plumb it inline with the outlet side of the motor for forward direction. So you want it in the line that is returning fluid back to the pump. You mark the tire in 4 equidistant locations. Run the machine up against a solid object. Gradually move the stick on that side forward without the tire moving and check for flow. There should not be any flow...if there is the motor is leaking. Check at all 4 locations. Its a PITA test to do because the flow meter is not easy to read especially while trying to run the machine and I dont think the marks around 0 are as good as in the higher flow ranges.

The other test on motors is you should be able to spin them in the forward direction smoothly. And they should be difficult to impossible to spin backwards. This is with the machine off the ground.

I just had one that passed all these tests...put a wheel motor on and it was fixed. So I really dont have alot of faith in these tests.

Hydrogear you should be able to find parts breakdowns for easily if you really want to take it apart. If its Parker, good luck. We dont delve into the pumps/motors. During the season, if its bad replace it.

Haven't done anything yet but noticed dust build-up on the wheel motor
tire mounting nut today.......now I know I got a wheel motor leak at least.