1. Never water more than 2 times week in cooler weather and 3 times a week in warm (hot) weather. 2. Each time you water make sure that at least 1/2 inch of water gets distributed. 3. Do not water every day, or the roots will become shallow, causing weak immune properties of your lawn, ultimately increasing its susceptibility to disease (fungi, dollar patch, brown spot, take all root rot). 4. In the summer, watch for weeds and remove anything manually by hand. 5. In late August, September, early October, be on the look out for a small white moth that flies in and out of everyone's lawn in the neighborhood -- including yours. These moths drop eggs of army cutworms and sod webworms. Such worms come out at night and can digest a square meter of lawn in one evening. You'll know when you have sod webworm infestation since whole sections of you lawn will disappear, leaving only the thatch -- i.e. a brown look to everything within a matter of weeks. (to confirm their existience when you think you have them, mix one gallon of water and several tablespoons of dish detergent, get a flashlight, dump solution on lawn, and watch what comes up). In late fall, you can actually walk your dogs around the neighborhood (or drive around) and see large circular patches of people's St. Augustine eaten up by these critters. A natural insecticide against sod webworms is neem oil, diluted with several tablespoons per gallon of water and sprayed on your lawn -- I have neem oil but have not yet experimented with it. Rather, use Bayer Complete spray if I think it's too late for sod webworms, or the granular Bayer Complete if I am ahead. You can also switch it up and use Ortho Max, but never use the same product twice in a rows --> always switch it up. If you do not do the above you will potentially lose your entire lawn in one month in the Fall due to sod webworms -- "I guarantee it" 6. For winterizing, it helps to lay down a high potassium (for root strength) winterizer fert in say November. 7. Maybe in December, lay down 1/4 inch of manure over your entire lawn. Peat moss when laid down in 1/4 inch layers is known to be the best killer of take all root rot (TARR), which forms 10-14 foot lengths of dead lawn -- which normally you would think would be due to insect infestation. 8. Water in the winter 1 time per week -- and don't skimp. 9. In the spring, maybe use Scott's Bonus S to kill pre-emergent weeds. 10. Aerate your lawn in the spring. 11. One week later (March, April) put down a lot of Milorganite, which will never burn your lawn. 12. During, say, June-July, apply Milorganite again. 13. Usually in June-July your lawn will become weak due to the heat, and will succumb to fungal infection from "dollar patch" or "brown spot" fungis. To control these, I apply Spectracide Illuminox anti-fungal spray, which hooks up to the hose. 14. At this point you now go to step 5 (above), and watch out for white moths dropping sod webworm eggs in your lawn. Questions: How does my lawn get micronutrients? From applying manure in November, and Milorganite year round (every 3-4 months). What about weeds all year long? You have to deal with weeds manually and pull out anything you notice. Nimblewill and nutsedge are the biggy's for St. Augustine. (Nutsedge is said to grow where there are drainage issues). What's Milorganite? Human sewage sludge from Jones Island Sewage Treatment Plant, Lake Michigan, Wisconsin. Where can I get it? Home Depot, Lowe's, local fert store. Milorganite has about 4% iron, so St. Augustine will turn a dark green like Kentucky Blue Grass after treatment. Apparently, LESCO makes an Iron Plus, which will make your lawn turn amazing dark greenish-bluish colors -- but it's a little expensive, and that's why I go with Milorganite. It's all in the natural iron in human sewage sludge. Right now (late August) I know that if I don't apply a strong dose of Bayer Complete or Ortho Max insecticide within the next 1-2 months, then we can lose our entire lawn to sod webworms when the moths arrive. This happened last year, and I am now staying on top of it. (do you know how long it took in the late fall and winter to grow the entire lawn back? --> about 4-5 months because the lawn was dormant). Never stop doing the above and your St. Augustine should do very well. The majority of these tricks were learned right here at the LawnSite Forums, so I give credit where credit's due.