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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i've got a residential sized 10,000 sq. ft. lawn in central Indiana made up of a 50-50 mix of perennial rye and kentucky bluegrass. to cut to the chase, i'm not totally happy with the lawns resistance to disease (fungus) and it sure is quick to brown in the hot summer, despite using my automatic irrigation system.

any suggestions on a seed that would mix-in welll with what I already have established. the lawn is about 2 yrs old and does not get alot of foot traffic but does get alot of sun as i don't have many trees.
 

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We can advise you all day about different seeds to use but it won't do you any good if you can't get it. Check with your local Co-Op, Nursery, UAP or Lesco. KB is probably the most disease susceptible grass type there is. Spend the extra money for a good seed. Like many things, you get what you pay for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We can advise you all day about different seeds to use but it won't do you any good if you can't get it. Check with your local Co-Op, Nursery, UAP or Lesco. KB is probably the most disease susceptible grass type there is. Spend the extra money for a good seed. Like many things, you get what you pay for.
and soooooo....lesco would have good seed? i have a lesco nearby. any suggestions???
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
lesco likes their premium athletic which is a 70% kbg & 30% perennial rye mix. it has 4 cultivars/varieties of kbg and 2 different pr.

with all the problems i've been having with fungus (dollar spot, red thread, rust, etc.), i'm wondering if the premium athletic is for me....or whether i should look for something higher in kentucky blue as it may be more disease resistant???? any thoughts?? again, my lawn is currently about a 50-50 mix of kbg and pr.
 

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Would be my first area to address because all the good seed and proper fert will be meaningless without adequate water to keep the lawn growing vigorously.

Would you be able to share with me your watering practices, head spacing, nozzle sizes etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Would be my first area to address because all the good seed and proper fert will be meaningless without adequate water to keep the lawn growing vigorously.

Would you be able to share with me your watering practices, head spacing, nozzle sizes etc?
i've got al rainbird 1806 pop-up sprays with MP Rotator nozzles. the nozzles are a mix of 1000's, 2000's, and a few 3000's. as for spacing, i don't know the exact spacing in terms of feet...in fact, the spacing is different due to the variety of nozzles. don't know if you're familiar with mp rotator nozzles but they are quite unconventional. suffice it to say i have excellent head-to-head coverage and the system was installed by an experienced pro.

as for watering schedule, i water 3 times per week. each zone (7 total) is set to water 18-20 minutes. this may seem like a long time but do your research on mp rotators first before making a conclusion.

fertilizer...i'm a do-it-myself homeowner who uses Scott's best lawn-pro 4 step granular fert. i know, there's certainly better quality fert avail....probably through my lesco dealer....however, i have to use up the last of my scotts before switching to the fert sold at lesco. i did manage to buy a 24-0-11 slow release granular from lesco approx. 6 weeks ago and applied it in an attempt to improve the fungus problems i've had. i'm not sure whether the fert has helped...or if the weather conditions have been more favorable to reducing the fungus problems i've had (rust, dollar spot, etc.). in any event, it's gotten better....just not completly cured as of yet.

i've just about had it with fungus. i've got this stuff in my mulch beds that may very well be artillery fungus??? i've seen vomit fungus...brown/dusty-type fungus...and now these little pea-sized-cup-shaped-shell like beige things all over the top of my black-dyed mulch. i've HAD IT ALL!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the system is set to start watering at 6:00 a.m. rarely do i ever water in the afternoon or early evening. there's been 3 or 4 times this summer that i've started it at 6-630pm when the lawn was looking pretty dry. i don't want to paint a picture that my lawn is a total disaster. it's still as good as it gets in my neighborhood...but the standards aren't hard to surpass.

mower blades are always sharp...mower deck is never lowered as i mow on the absolute highest setting. about 5 weeks ago, i applied gypsum and lime...both in fairly light amouts...and i seem to be seeing an improvement in that the color of grass is fairly consistent throughout. before, it looked as though some areas of the lawn were tan, others lime green, with a majority of area dark green (just like i like it) :)

as i said, i've had red thread, dollar spot, and a few spastic looking patterns of fungus (variety unknown) that turn the grass a straw yellow color. rust is also a problem as all my shoes are orange in color...but that seems to be getting better (perhaps the light fertilization of 24-0-11 did the trick...or was it the change in weather conditions). little wonder i've got fungus in my mulch beds....hell, it's all over my lawn.

hmmmmmmmmmmmm
 

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Fungus LOVES cool wet conditions. When the grass stays wet for prolonged periods, like early evening through night, fungus will thrive. Be sure to stop watering early enough so the grass can dry before it gets dark.
 

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is your problem. If you do your homework on the mp nozzles and have the head to head coverage you say, the precipitation rate is approx .4 in/hr. So your 18-20 minutes delivers about .13 in of water, 3x/wk is about .4 in/week.

I'm in NJ very near to Philadelphia, and our summer weather here requires about 6-6.5 in/month to meet evapo-transpiration needs. My guess is you need that or perhaps more.

A loam soil fully hydrated holds about 2" of useable water in the top 12 in of the soil. Silt loam about 2.25". Sand and clay soils hold less useable water. Result, you can only go a few days past a week until wilt begins to occur in the summer. Your system adds a little more to that. But after 2-3 weeks your lawn is most likely beginning to go bad if no rain occurs. If you wait till the lawn wilts or drys before starting to water, you just keep it in a stressed condition.

The Associated Press and more recently a news letter from the Univ. of Delaware still recommend watering deep and letting your lawn dry out, applying 1" per week. It's bogus information that is more like urban myth or old wives tales. It's not supported by real science and real experience.

Personally, my rotor zones put out about .4"+/hr. and they run 30 minutes every night beginning at 3am and finish aound 6:30. For about 10 yrs I have recommended clients water daily for sufficient time to replace what is lost by plant use and evaporation each day. I also recommend never letting the site dry out before beginning to water. Bad things happen when you do that. My lawn and my clients lawns are happy and have minimal disease problems as a result.
 

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Have you had a soil test done? If not contact your lesco dealer and ask them to show you what to do and get a soil sample done. If the soil PH is off the fert, weed control, and fungus control you are applying is working just not as effective. Soil PH should be 6.8 - 6.9 for best resluts. If you put out lime and saw an improvement then the PH is probably low and another app of lime would be great. Get a soil sample done and then see how things go from there. use of professional ferts from lesco will also give a better result than the "Scott's homeowner Stuff" at the home cheapo. (i do not work for lesco but I am sold on their products and rely alot on their advise)
 
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