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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i got my renovator out today have not used it in 3 years..
i kicks up alot of grass/thatch
1.do you guys clean it up or leave it?
i seems if we pick it up we are taking seed with us.and if we leave it it looks like hell...
2. do you just scratch the surface of bury the blades?

i am looking in the area of $65.00/m using fescue at a rate of 4-6 lbs./m

ant
 

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Your rates are right about on what ours are. We charge $70 per M, w/ starter fert.. As far as the stuff on top, we leave it. It doesn't hurt anything. It won't matter, because it's going to be grass there in two weeks, anyway, provideed the people aren't too STUPID to grow grass (Many are). As long as they keep it watered,... that's the main thing. I can't believe how many people just don't get it. As far as the depth setting,... we dig down a bit for good penetration. The Fescue you said you are using,.. Is it Tall Fescue you are going to? If so,.. GOOD CHOICE! There is so much of a trend going toward that direction. The stuff is unbeatable. Once it's established, it grows,- even in sand, doesn't need hardly any water, and stays green all season. What more could you ask for.
 

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I leave what kicks up. I apply at a rate of 4lbs per 1K sq ft. I charge $40 per 1K sq ft....and thats more than what people want to pay. That includes starter fertilizer.

MATT
 

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I'm in the middle of trying to get all of my seeding done as well.

I start by first blanket spraying yards that have lots of weeds with Drive75 and Quicksilver as well as Primo Maxx. Then one week later return and aerate the snout out of the yard with the Plugr Pl800. Then I wait atleast one day and let the cores dry out then I come back spread seed and fertilizer and then verticut with a renothin.

I also leave most of the thatch. Only pick up the big clumps -- mostly for the customers benefits -- but I would imagine big clumps could shade the grass and slow germination.
 

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Hamons-

How do you like the results you get from the Drive 75/ Quicksilver combination? I thought about using this myself. So far I have only used Quicksilver with Lesco Three Way. I haven't tried it with Drive.
 

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You're right -- it is a lot of work -- thankfuilly I get paid for a lot of work. Letting the cores dry out makes a big difference in the results. After runnning the Renothin over them -- they turn to dust and work good to cover the seed and fill the holes.

Quicksilver Drive combination is a great mix for Seeding -- but have a narrow spectrum of weed control. Gets the major ones and cleans it up enough to help with the seeding. I love the Quicksilver, but for normal applications I mix it with a three way instead of the Drive. Drive is kind of expensive -- I get it for $75 acre.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the replys''''''''''
did a few this week and you should have seen there face when i told them that the grass stays...
ant
 

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I like the idea of aeration a couple days before. You could do the same thing as Hamons except come back with the Renovator a couple days after aerating to slice seed. YOu would really get great seed/soil contact and great soil conditioning at the same time.

You are correct about the grass clumps. Leave them. If the customer is upset about them, they can cut the grass as long as they don't bag it .

Often people will scalp the lawn and mulch the clippings before renovating. This will reduce the amount of grass clumps left from the job.
 

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Originally posted by ant
you should have seen there face when i told them that the grass stays...
ant
What I do is inform them the the grass that comes to the surface will act as a mulch and aid in keeping the soil moist, thus a better chance of the seed germinating (because the seed has less chance of drying out). Mow after 7-10 days. I will also them the lawn HAS to be cut beofre I seed.

MATT
 
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