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Slice Seed/Dethacth question....

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by 2fatguyslawncare, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. 2fatguyslawncare

    2fatguyslawncare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 60

    Hi folks, I have a question about my Classen TSS-20;

    If a lawn has a moderate (.75 inch) thatch, would slice seeding and aerating provide enough of the thatch breakup to negate the need to switch over to the de-thatching blades that I purchased with the maching?

    If not... Would the appropriate course of action be:

    De-thatch, aerate then slice seed? My own lawn is in pretty rough shape, but I didnt think .75 was too bad...

  2. kenny s

    kenny s LawnSite Member
    Messages: 85

    Hi 2 Fatguys,
    From my experience with thatching over the years, (30), .75 thatch is not alot. YOu do not have to switch the blades on your powerseeder. Simply go over the area that you are going to powerseed with the seed feeder turned off first, and then the thatch will be brought to the top. If there are alot of clumps and enough thatch to hinder the seeding process, just take a blower, (ground or backpack or both), and blow off or pick up that thatch with a mower, rider or walk behind. You have to cut the existing grass to 2" anyway, so pick up thatch and cut grass at the same time. I am new myself to power seeding and I bought the Lawn Solutions Turf Revitlizer, (9 hp comm. model), and it dethatches as well as slit seeds with the same blades, no need to change them to dethatch. I just did 2 jobs on friday, 8100 and 44oo sq ft. I did just what I just said to you, I cut existing grass to 2", core aerated the areas to be powerseeded which lossened the soil up some and deposited the cores from several inches under the soil, on top. Then I power seeded. When the power seeder goes over the area after core aerating, it will grind up the cores and re-introduce them as top soil again. I am not at atll familiar with the Classen power seeder, I have only used the Revitilizer and I am very happy with it, and I am real glad I bought the one with the 9 hp Subaru engine because there are many times when you need that extra hp/power. One of the jobs I did the other day had a section that was VERY HARD and I needed the power to did in to the earth even after aerating it!! I hope this was of help to you. Again, I have been in business a long time but this power seeding is new to me so I am learning as I go, but the more I read on this site about others who have been doing this type of work, (lawn renovation/power seeding, etc.), I learn more and more. Two very informative contractors who are very helpful on this siteare, Runner and Marek13, just to name a couple. They are very experienced and willing to give good sound advice. I have benefitted from their advice myself. Good luck, if I can help just write me.
    Kenny S
  3. rcreech

    rcreech Sponsor
    Male, from OHIO
    Messages: 6,163

    I guess I would have to say definitly dethatch and get it off of there. 3/4" to me is a lot of thatch.

    A thatch level of that thickness will start to hurt your lawn, especially if it gets dry.

    I would slice it going two directions with the seeder emptly and power rake it up, then slice seed where needed.

    It is hard to thicken up a lawn with that much thatch, and also it will be hard to get a good germination rate as you need good seed to soil contact.

    I have tried in the past to "get by" in some thatchy areas as you discuss and those are always the areas that I don't get a good stand of grass.
  4. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,497

    I fully agree. 3/4" is ALOT of thatch! I would get the vast majority of it up first, then drill the seed in.
  5. Turfco Tim

    Turfco Tim LawnSite Member
    Messages: 101

    I know this thread is rather old but I came across this info today that I believe addresses your question. It confirms what runner and rcreech posted about thickness. The website is from the University of Illinois.


    Best of luck!
    Tim Gray

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