slice seeding/overseeding how often/soon

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by djagusch, Sep 11, 2013.

  1. djagusch

    djagusch LawnSite Platinum Member
    from MN
    Messages: 4,358

    3 wks have past since I aerated, slit seeded the front yard which was graded black dirt. A 33/33/33 blue/fescue/rye mix was used from central irrigation/turf. Temps were hot but just kept the irrigation running more often. Grass is 5 to 6"s mostly and ready for the first cut. Basically very good germination rate visually even though I haven't noticed the blue popping up much but should be starting any time. A couple patchy spots from the dog running in it and some lighter seeded areas but overall really impressive.

    Anyways I want to get some more seed down 30 rye 70 blue mix. Maybe alittle topdressing where I want the ground evened out more. I'm guessing slit seeding would distrup the new seedlings, correct? Would a another aerate then broadcast be ok? Or just broadcast? Or do I just need to wait till spring so it gets established?

    Typically seeding after sept 20th or so in MN you stand a chance of getting a hard frost before the seedlings are hardy enough to survive.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  2. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    Do a dormant seeding once you let this current stand dry out and grow normally...
  3. djagusch

    djagusch LawnSite Platinum Member
    from MN
    Messages: 4,358

    Basically anytime before snow flies then? End of October time frame? Would you slit seed it or broadcast?
  4. Puttinggreens

    Puttinggreens LawnSite Senior Member
    Male, from southeast PA
    Messages: 399

    5 to 6", start mowing often. Mowing will help the plants begin to tiller and fill in the gaps.
  5. turfcobob

    turfcobob LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 878

    I would not go across a new seeding. You will destroy what you now have going. The plants are way to frail at this stage. Go for the dormant seeding and hope for a good spring.
  6. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    Just as long as the grass don't get a chance to germinate, before winter sets in with permanent frozen soil until Spring...

    I agree that running the slit-seeder across new seed is destructive so, broadcasting the seed will work just fine...
  7. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,813

    I tried various dates last year. Seed sowed in September, October and November sprouted in the fall. IIRC December, January, February and March sown seed spouted in April, about the time of the first mowing.
    Frost did not damage any of the seed. Seed sown on top of snow sprouted in spring.
    I used flower pots outdoors with topsoil. Pots were sunk into the ground.
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2013
  8. djagusch

    djagusch LawnSite Platinum Member
    from MN
    Messages: 4,358

    I figured that another slice seed would cause damage. It's good to know people agreed. I will throw some on before snow flies.

    The xt5 and ls22 had made some impressive results with the seeding. I'm going to have some extra compost/peat/soil left over from a topdress job and figure it will get thrown on top of the yard still this fall.
  9. DA Quality Lawn & YS

    DA Quality Lawn & YS LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,296

    I have a few slice overseed jobs to do, and plan to do them within the next week.
    Too hot to do them any earlier, too afraid people wont water right in the heat and then the new seedlings keel over.

    At any rate, I wouldn't bother doing any more seeding on that plot this year if it looks decent already. You will be surprised how much it thickens in by the time next spring rolls around.
  10. foreplease

    foreplease LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,062

    I, too, question whether you need any more seed at all. Sounds like you are already a couple mowings behind. Mowing at least twice a week for the rest of this year will make a big difference. If you have some low spots you want to fix, consider filling the, with your soil/peat/compost mix and topping those areas off with seed (that matches what you already used) that you have pre-germinated in damp soil mixture. This can be done in a wheelbarrow or several 5 gallon pails. Those spots may need to be mulched (grass clippings, straw, PennMulch, etc.) to assure that they grow and catch up to the rest of the lawn.

    If you have been hesitant to mow because you feel it is too soft that is all the more reason not to run a slice seeder or aerator through it. If you are able to lightly roll it, it might make you feel better about running a mower across it. Chances are it is fine as is, in terms of firmness, with that much top growth.

Share This Page