So I overseeded a lawn 3 weeks ago..

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by B&Clawncare, May 12, 2013.

  1. B&Clawncare

    B&Clawncare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 179

    Valk- We hit about 33-35 last night.

    This wasn't a full renovation. Just slit seeding. I used high grade seed and fertilizer.

    I know the weather has been poor but he wants to know if I can put down more seed. I think I should hold off and not do this until temps are much warmer.

    The question now becomes do I have him continue to water to keep the seed alive?
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  2. Joey waid

    Joey waid LawnSite Member
    Messages: 109

    Clearly back off. Wait till it warms and get on schedule base on what you see not on time
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  3. B&Clawncare

    B&Clawncare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 179

    Okay. We are 70-90 degrees all next week
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  4. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 18,335

    Do you need more help? Contrary to what some might believe, you would be surprised at what you can do from "thousands of miles away". So I will post (again) methods you can use to determine proper irrigation with limited data collection and/or from "thousands of miles away".

    Use the following site ( Web Soil Survey ) to determine potential/likely soil conditions on site, assuming you haven't done the necessary site audit (soils, irrigation, plants).

    You also have known weather data for your region (attached images in my posts) and of course you have the necessary minimum information needed to determine correct irrigation run times and intervals (PR or AR, DU), right? If not, make some educated assumptions based on what you do know.

    Now using the Ames numbers, since you said you are in central Iowa, how much should be be irrigating?

    Now your basic water requirements on a per hydrozone (or valve zone) basis assuming no rain inputs, soil moisture content is at field capacity to start with and soil is homogeneous throughout root zone (both current and potential). Using the attached images and previously images I posted along with data you should have collected from the site and/or data from the soil survey for the site you should have now pulled, generate an estimate for irrigation requirements.

    Interval: INTz = (AWHC * RZ * MAD) / (ETo * Kl)

    INTz = Zone Interval (days)
    AWHC = Soil Plant Available Water Holding Capacity (in/foot)
    RZ = Root zone depth (feet)
    MAD = Management allowable depletion (%)
    ETo = reference evapotranspiration (in/day)
    Kl = landscape/crop coefficient (%) (see WUCOLS)​

    Runtime: RTz = [(60 * INTz * ETz) / ARze] * RTM

    RTz = Irrigation zone runtime (mins)
    INTz = Interval between irrigation events (days)
    ETz = Zone adjusted ET (in/day) --> ETz = (ETo * Kl)
    ARze = Zone effective application rate (in/hr) --> from catch can audit (most accurate)
    RTM = Runtime multiplier (a factor of DU) --> RTM = 100/DULH

    @hi_speedreed: Is that detailed enough for you?


    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    Once the seed has soaked upadequate water, youonly need for the temps to rise to adequate levelsand as long as the seed doesn't dry out completely it will germinate at that time(if it is still properly bonded beneath approximately beneath 1/4" of soil)...
    No more complicated than that... :)
  6. hi_speedreed

    hi_speedreed LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 534

    I find it funny you contradict yourself. On 05/04 you told Hissing Cobra, "anything short of auditing the site is guess work."

    So which is it? You can help someone without seeing the site or you are guessing?
  7. Golfpro21

    Golfpro21 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 563

    up here certain types of Kentucky can take 30-40 days to germinate, you need to sell them on the fact that the turf will continue to get thicker and thicker, it does not all happen simultanously.....tell them they need patience and suggest waiting a few more weeks and yes, continue to water
  8. herler

    herler LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,139

    Many people make this mistake.
    All the rest of this thread are wrong.
    It is not their fault, they are inexperienced in the fine arts of proper lawn maintenance.

    Learn diz below is read:

    We DON'T seed in the spring.
    Spring is the time to apply PRE-EMERGENT WEED CONTROL!
    Read: Weed control INTERFERES with SEED germination.
    That is MOST likely why it's not germinating.

    They probably forgot to tell you, but it doesn't matter, we DON'T seed in the spring.
    We seed in the FALL, because FALL is the best time of the year for putting down grass seed.
    This is why we seed in the FALL.
    FALL is the BEST time of year for it.

    Read: We DON'T seed in the spring.
    Spring is time for PRE-emergent Weed Control.
    Weed Control prevents seed germination.
    That is why we DON'T put down grass seed in the spring.
    Spring is time for PRE-emergent Weed Control.

    No exceptions, only one way to do it right.

    We SEED in the FALL.
    And PRE-emergent in the SPRING.
    That way there is NO interference.

    One more time:
    Pre-Em in the Spring.
    Seed in the FALL.

    Thank you.
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  9. orangemower

    orangemower LawnSite Silver Member
    from pa
    Messages: 2,768

    Almost freezing and you're wondering why the KBG hasn't germinated? :hammerhead:

    If the first seed hasn't germinated yet, what makes him think more seed will make a difference?

    The soil only needs to be "damp", not wet.

    You should already know all of this before you even did the job. Now you're scrambling to find the right answer to tell him. :dizzy:

    In this case I'd say you need to educate the customer but it sounds like you might need some first. Go over when he's not looking and toss a bunch of annual rye. You'll have stuff growing in days.
  10. jbell36

    jbell36 LawnSite Bronze Member
    from KANSAS
    Messages: 1,416

    man, this isn't complicated...

    first of all, it's KBG...that already germinates way slower than fescue and most other seeds

    even fescue is germinating really slow right now...actually, i would say this year is one of the worst for spring seeding, and for once the issue isn't 'not enough moisture.'..the soil temps are simply too cold right now...seed needs between 45 and 65 degrees to germinate and keep growing

    as far as watering goes, yes, keep it watered, but it doesn't need to be watered as frequently

    and yes, i agree, spring is not ideal for seeding for multiple reasons, but customers WILL demand it, and if you won't do it then they will find somebody else that will...pre emergent is the number one reason why you don't seed in spring, but if that isn't relevant, as in this particular customer hasn't put any pre emergent down, then pre emergent is not an issue

    moral of the story, make sure pre emergent hasn't been put down, water but don't over water, germination is going to be very slow due to soil temperature

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