So no 10w40 for Vanguards, wander why?

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing Equipment' started by ARN Greencare, Feb 9, 2019.

  1. Valk

    Valk LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,207

    4-cycle gas mower engines are less dynamic and tending more toward being a power plant...and are not generally considered high compression engines, per se.

    Honest question:
    Does film strength matter more in higher compression applications like diesels/turbo- & super-charged engines?
    ~ In these applications, the piston rings are holding back a LOT of PSI in the combustion chamber - compared to our lower-compression mower engines.
    GSO LAWNEN4CER and hort101 like this.
  2. Koehn's Lawn Service

    Koehn's Lawn Service LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 819

    I ran regular 10w30 and still got 4000 to 5000 hours out of my engines and just because I have switched to synthetic oil I still change oil on my schedule and don't run the synthetic any longer than the reg 10w30
  3. aaron580

    aaron580 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 60

    Just saying, Kohler and Kawasaki recommend 20w50 oils in hotter climates in big block engines, and due to oil consumption consumption rates, that's what I use in both, and 15w50 in the vanguard big blocks.
    weeze, ARN Greencare and hort101 like this.
  4. OP
    ARN Greencare

    ARN Greencare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 194

    And there's nothing wrong with what you're doing. You know why? Cause everything is working for you, no problems else you would do something different.

    Unlike rippinryno, I am not going to call someone out for doing something that works for them.
    hort101 likes this.
  5. OP
    ARN Greencare

    ARN Greencare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 194

    And what you're saying, or asking is extremely valid. The application, type of use, type of engine, all have the most impact on what we need to use. A synthetic would be a prime choice in an LP engine equipped with a good three stage air filtration system. The LP fuel will not contaminate the oil quickly as gasoline, the three stage air filter would help limit the amount of dust/dirt entering the engine, and the stability of a synthetics viscosity over many hours of use would allow for some pretty long oil change intervals.

    Your question also brings me back to my original post, 10W40 seems to fill a niche, especially in the climate I live in, yet B&S doesn't mention it. Which I think cruznmike had the best response...

    ...B&S doesn't sell any 10w40 oils.
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019
    hort101 likes this.
  6. TPendagast

    TPendagast LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 15,914


    I wouldn’t put it past Briggs
    They seem to be in the everything business!
  7. Koehn's Lawn Service

    Koehn's Lawn Service LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 819

    well thank you sir im just giving my info with what I have done for 32 years. I am curious to see how things go with the synthetic I just switched over a couple 3 years ago but like I said my oil changing and maintenance is religious so we will see
    ARN Greencare, Walker56 and hort101 like this.
  8. Koehn's Lawn Service

    Koehn's Lawn Service LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 819

    I quoted my own dang post lol im getting senile in above response sorry guys this is the one I meant to respond to
    ARN Greencare, Walker56 and hort101 like this.
  9. jonnystihl

    jonnystihl Banned
    Messages: 160

    Kawasaki is now offering a 5w30 synthetic blend for lower temps and a 15w50 full synthetic for higher temps available next month.
    weeze, Eric502 and hort101 like this.
  10. rippinryno

    rippinryno LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,364

    The oil becoming dirty is in direct relation to your air filter maintenance. If you can't maintain your air filter you're obviously going to allow more dirt and ebris in.

    Unless you go far beyond your oil life you have absolutely nothing to worry about with I-ph. the astm regulations have standardized this and do allow for oils to be analyzed regarding i-ph, but it's a non issue if you change your oil at the proper intervals.

    You're hell bent on the psi ratings which are far less important than cold oil performance. All of your conventional oils do not even compare to any synthetics when you're talking about lubrication during cold starts when the oil is not up to optimum performance temperature. It's ok to have a concern with the psi's, but i can tell you that the highest PSI does not equal the best oil, in fact as long as you within the range, you are just fine.

    i have operated long enough and seen many many oil analysis to believe any of the internet science that i often read. I pay attention to the properties in oil that matter most, as well as what has worked best for me. Synthetic oil, across the board, if comparing apples to apples, is proven to provide longer and better protection. Not only that, it's been scientifically proven on almost every platform possible.

    I actually called you out because you made a blanket statement that conventional oils have a higher film strength, that isdependent on brand and oil type. Nothing more than that. It's also not nearly a factor that would justify your next claims that "Regularly serviced conventional oil is better for your engine than longer oil change intervals of any synthetic. "

    If you want to stick your PSI ratings, here's a good list of a whole crapload of synthetic oils that will show equal or better PSI ratings. It seems you have been misled in believing that conventional oils have higher PSI, simply not true. notice that you will start seeing conventional in the lower categories, not in the high end PSI areas. Facts bud.
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019

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