sod and edger blades

Discussion in 'Florida Lawn Care Forum' started by unkownfl, Mar 5, 2011.

  1. unkownfl

    unkownfl LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,837

    Figured I'd make on thread instead of two. What thickness of edger blades are you guys using cutting 99% St Augustine? And what SOD are you guys using in CFL muck or sand I think the sand is better but everywhere I go that has sand is still dormant or dry.
  2. bugsNbows

    bugsNbows LawnSite Member
    Messages: 170

    I prefer the sand-based sod as it's more closely related (composition, texture, etc.) to our existing soils. Muck is totally different. This may add to any layering difficulties already present. However, it does tend to fall apart easier during cutting, transporting and laying.
  3. Landscape Poet

    Landscape Poet LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,638

    I prefer sand for the same reason. The falling apart reason is what is making me going into more muck based.

    IMO it seems that the sand adapts quicker than the muck, which is important during the heat and humidity that we get during the summer, which is also fungus season.

    The muck tends to hold the moisture that is applied better - so that has its advantages.

    My biggest thing is the handling. Labor cost money, so it is making more and more sense to use the muck because the sand tends to almost be non existent at the bottom, and sometimes the middle of the pallet.

    If using sand, I have figured I need to alot a larger % for waste, because it always seems that there is that one pallet that has a large section that is just not able to be handled without lots of extra attention.

    I asked this same question a while back, and ric brought up several good points, including the muck allows for the chemical companies product to stay in place a little longer, again a plus when putting it down in the heat of the season when most homeowners decide they need sod.
  4. Landscape Poet

    Landscape Poet LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,638

    Forgot to ad,

    On edger blades - I get mine at Florida Irrigation Supply - box of 50 for $37. I use whatever I can find that is cheap as I have not found any difference in the length of time they last be it named brand or generic, painted or unpainted.
  5. rob7233

    rob7233 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 876

    Muck based is more organic based material than sand. Having more OM with muck, chemicals & fertilizers have a greater capacity to be held in the root zone better and longer than with the sand.

    Sand leaches easier and drys out faster. What does newly laid sod need most? > To stay moist until rooted down. IMHO muck based sod has this, as a greater advantage. Potentially less watering needed= less $. My goal is to get the new sod established as easily and quickly as possible with the least amount of potential stress to the plant, me or the client!

    As far as soil composition, layering and compatibility, we are talking about one inch of sod soil here. Very unlike the research findings of adding amendments to a tree or shrub planting hole(a waste of time & $$).

    Furthermore, as Mike said, muck based handles better and lays more even and smoother for a nicer finished appearance.

    Lastly, Muck based sod can make you more money. Trucks and the DOT have transportation weight limits. The blended man-made muck soils are lighter and more consistant than sand and don't compress and break down as much. So, with that you can get a 500 sq/ft pallet instead of a 400 on that truck delivery with less waste and less pallets.

    However, not mentioned before, I sometimes wonder about acclimations issues on some of the sod that comes from way down in south FL in certain times of the year (like now). Any opinions on that?
  6. Mike I think the summer is a great time to re-sod due to quick establishment. Not the best time, but if watered and monitored properly it is an easy establishment.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  7. rob7233

    rob7233 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 876

    Well, I gotta disagree with ya. More heat stress, greater disease and pest pressure. Pests are drawn to stressed lawns and plants. Can you think of a greater stressor event than getting cut up by your roots? Also, new sod takes a lot of water to get established. With the summer heat, the rate of evaporation is at it's highest, less water to the sod and more water and $$ needed. In addition, with the sky high humidity you have a greater potential loss issues to fungus. This is why they say to apply fungicides and insecticides to new sod in the summer which also drives up the cost and water demands of the sod.

    Also labor is much less efficient due to the increased need to take more frequent water/ cool off breaks.
  8. I have done and seen installs done in the brink off summer and the sod was established in 2 weeks. Not sure about Orlando, but we get tons of rain in the summer. If irrigation is monitored(turn off after a downpour) things should be fine. I have yet to see new sod that was monitored properly have insect damage or fungus problems. I didn't say it was the BEST time, just that it is a good time.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  9. Patriot Services

    Patriot Services LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,508

    I have to admit the only time I don't install sod is Dec and Jan. I laid 15k last month and 10k already this month. I include 3 months of aftercare or I won't warranty it. I control the water. Too many HO feel the need to drown new sod which brings on all the problems mentioned. Muck based is all I use. Every yard I have done had more than enough sand already.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  10. justanotherlawnguy

    justanotherlawnguy LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,282

    15k in sod installs in February! Sounds too good to be true!

    How many mexicans do you have working for you?
    Posted via Mobile Device

Share This Page