Soil Test (fix it)

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by LAWNGODFATHER, Oct 22, 2002.

  1. Soil PH 6.7
    Buffer PH -----
    Soluable Salts 0.73
    Sodium 87

    P 81
    K 211
    Mg 338
    Ca 2777

    CEC 17.6
    %K 3.1
    %Mg 16.0
    %Ca 78.8
    %Na 2.1
    %H 0.0

    What now?
  2. f350

    f350 Banned
    from mi
    Messages: 424

    ok let me try,

    open the everyday lawncare cook book:

    a dash of lime:
    a smidge of k
    stick a fork in it to venilate:
    a nice covering of "n"

    14 day's later a nice green lawn or a really good bagel:

    under no means was this intended to inform or train a lesser individual:: this was mear fun for a good laugh...
  3. KirbysLawn

    KirbysLawn Millenium Member
    Messages: 3,485

    Looks good to me.
  4. tremor

    tremor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,476


    Even though this soil will meet the needs of common turfgrasses grown for lawns (it is a lawn right?), we need to remember that turf uses more nutrients than even "perfect" soils can deliver. We just don't fix atmospheric nitrogen in these parts to meet the turfs full time needs.

    A good addition to this test might have been Organic Matter Content. You just can't have too much OM. This would open up additional sales opportunities with a client who found the "interpretation of results" to be that of perfection.

    For turf, all this test means is that a standard 4-1-2 ratio will suffice without the need for deviation or special elemental additions.

    There are some other crops that would benefit from a little more Mg & some wouldn't be happy in the near basic Ph condition.

    Are we looking to grow turf? What kind?

  5. Damn, I was waiting for some one to screw up and post the wrong thing.

    Fescue turf. . . . . . . moderate shade.

    The reason for the test was to find out "why" the turf is shallow rooting.
  6. tremor

    tremor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,476

    How compacted is the soil. Texture OK?
    I've been known to recommend & have seen the benefits of deept tine aerating (6"), & then dragging in massive quantities of Turface infield conditioner.

  7. I aerated the piss out of it this fall, the worst areas I roto-tilled them up, and seeded them.

    I guess I should have added some more chit to it when I tilled it?

    I can add some stuff to it this spring.
  8. tremor

    tremor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,476

    Without Turface, I don't think I could grow anuals in my front yard. The soil was way too heavy when I bought this place.
    Turface, Manure, & Peat moss have changed the structure significantly.
    Worms & Microbes consume the organic matter more quicky than most people (myself included) can reasonably replace it. But the Turface stays put for many years.
    Check this link.

  9. greenman

    greenman LawnSite Addict
    Messages: 1,405

    Well, I aint the smartest guy around, lgf, but you aint gonna fool me with that. So Ill tell you how to fix it. Just sit back and watch the grass grow.
  10. joshua

    joshua LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,226

    Is it really a chemical inbalance or could it be a hard pan? a hard pan can prevent the roots from growing deeper( i believe ). lets say you aerated at 3inches for 8 years starught you could actulally do more harm than good and create a hard pan. which might be your problem

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