Soil Test Results

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by LawnPro in NC, Aug 27, 2002.

  1. LawnPro in NC

    LawnPro in NC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 101

    I recently submitted a soil sample to a local company whom caters to mostly golf courses. The results were PH 6.6, Calcium base saturation 63.0%, Magnesium Base saturation 29.10, Potassium Base Saturation 5.90%.

    They recommended (20 #per K of Gypsum Magic), (5#per K of 0-0-50), (50# Per K of 1-20-0), (10# Per K of 18-46-0)

    Any alterrnatives or your input.

    I priced this program at $1450.00 that's 3.5 times the cost of materials. with their schedule it will take 12 mos to complete.

    the test cost 50.0 with recs.

    I'm learning more everyday.
  2. LawnPro in NC

    LawnPro in NC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 101

    Some input please.... by the way the lawn is 19k.
  3. lawnstudent

    lawnstudent LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 472

    LawnPro in NC,

    what were the P & K rates per M (K sq. ft.) or per acre on that soil test? How many apps are they recommending? What is your soil type? Are you growing a cool season or warm season turf? Do you mulch mow? What are your objective for this lawn area? What is Gypsum Magic; is this just the local product name for gypsum? Are they appling gypsum because of a high salt index in your soil? Or is the gypsum being applied because of the clay content? It sounds like an insane amount of money for 19K sq. ft. of lawn for a year! Maybe I should move to NC and maintain lawns in your area.

  4. LawnPro in NC

    LawnPro in NC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 101

    the actual results

    Attached Files:

  5. LawnPro in NC

    LawnPro in NC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 101

    Recommendations to correct soil???
  6. LawnPro in NC

    LawnPro in NC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 101

    I would like to thank all 114 viewers for your help. I guess no one knows what it takes to get soil back in shape.
  7. KirbysLawn

    KirbysLawn Millenium Member
    Messages: 3,485

    Not famliuar with that style that for one or two lawns? Could the company that did the test not show you?

    I do see that the organics and Ca are low along with the pH on the left. Organic fert for low CEC's, & hi calcium lime would be a start.
  8. paul

    paul Lawnsite Addict
    Messages: 1,625

    I know your growing warm season turf, Here I deal with cool season turf but I'll throw out a few comments, Gyspum they are using to raise the PH but lower the Magnesium, your CEC ratio tells me you have a sandy loam soil leaning more to sand, I would start incorperating organic matter with your aeration program.
  9. LawnPro in NC

    LawnPro in NC LawnSite Member
    Messages: 101

    The turf is Cool Season (Fescue), Kirby the test is one lawn 2 seperate plots. One side won't grow grass that the one with 5.5 PH.
    The Recs they gave me call for 1-20-0, 18-46-0 and 0-0-50 These are no avalible anywhere else but there. I want to use other products that allow more profit margin. Any suggestions

  10. strickdad

    strickdad LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 544

    lawn pro , from what i can see your numbers are not that far off, as far as the ph is concerend if you want a quicker result i would put about 40 lb of pulverized (powdered) lime per thousand. i have used this in the past and it will respond alot quicker than pellet lime .it does however make a big mess!! if you can areate the area before you install lime to get even quicker results. wait about 6 weeks and re- test. this time send your test back through your local ag department and they will send it out to north carolina state university or a&t state university.(by the way this test is free) and see what the results are. your ph will be in the area of 6.0 to 6.2 then or at least on the way to that number . 6.0 to6.5 is a good number for fescue. as far as correcting the fert requirements, these test come back with some wierd numbers such as your 0-0-50 and 18-46-0. what you have to do is figure the math out and get as close to the recomendations as possible. example if the test came back calling for 2lb per k of say 10-20-20 and you couldnt find this in your area, then you could put 4 lbs of 5-10-10 in and the results would be the same. i will say the test that comes back from the state does a better job of explaining this than i do. i also know from experiance that you are better off staying to the low side of ther recomendations than above them. also it is real hard to instantly correct soil to prescribed "labratory" specs. you are better off "sneaking up on the optium numbers" than you are trying to hit them all at once. make a few changes , take a test send it off and see if you are heading in the right direction. as far as the fescue is concerned alot of people struggle with it in your area because of the large amounts of sand in the soil this is why centipeade zoysia and bremuda are really popular in that area because they adapt better to the type of soil you have than fescue...

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