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Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by dnrsslr, Nov 29, 2013.
Why Champion 322's? What is better about them?
I have a new battery so that shouldn't be the problem.
I have SAE 30 regular oil in the tractor now. I use the tractor in the summer for mowing lawn and blowing snow in the winter. I'm in Ohio so some years, (like 2013) I might only use the tractor a couple of times all winter. I only put 40 to 50 hours on it in the summer so I'd prefer to not have to change oil every spring and every fall.
The tractor sits in a shed that has no heat or electric. I have to run a cord 100' from the house to get electric for the battery charger. I have a heater that sits on top of a propane tank so I can't really run that all the time. I'm thinking I could start the heater the night before if I expect to need the tractor in the morning...
Someone mentioned synthetic oil. Will that make a significant difference in how easy the engine turns over?
Well SAE 30 is good for the summer. Its not good if you let the machine sit in temps below like 40-50. So you can either change the oil for winter or have trouble starting and possibly cause damage.
Also when you say new battery, what did you get? If you went cheap, that some of the problem. Honestly for what you are doing I would get the best I could. Interstate SP40. Another good thing to do would be to remove the battery and keep it in a heated location on a battery tender
What oil do you recommend? Weight and synthetic or regular?
I bought it a month or so ago from a local battery shop. About $75. Is that a "cheap" battery?. I believe it's Deka brand. Supposed to be manufactured in PA and supposedly better than what the big auto stores sell.
I sent the following email to sparkplugs.com:
I have a Kawasaki FH601V. The throttle shaft was modified so it open mores, so the engine is basically an FH641V. The dealer gave me BPR5ES plugs but the ones I had before were BPR4ES. Immediately after the change, the tractor started perfectly. The tractor sat for about a month and on a very cold night, it would not start. Could the different plugs make a difference in how it starts?
Here is the response I received:
Dear Don, thank you for contacting us!
I checked with an NGK technician about this and he replied:
For both the FH601V and the FH641V I show part number BPR4ES as the recommended spark plug. The BPR5ES is one heat range colder than the BPR4ES, and could cause hard starting and have a higher probability of fouling.
It sounds like you may wish to try the BPR4ES again:
I hope this helps fix the problem.
NGK.com - part of the SparkPlugs.com family
Don, I don't think you understand what is meant by a hotter or colder plug. Click on your link, go to the bottom of the page and click on:
How Do I Find a Colder or Hotter Plug? when there click on Heat Range.
Both of those plugs would have started your machine if everything was equal at the first start up.....
I agree either plug would have started the engine if everything was equal to the first start up. But, it was a much colder day the second time.
Thanks for pointing me to that information. It says:
- When a spark plug is referred to as a cold plug, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, keeping the firing tip cooler.
- A hot plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter. It seems to me, on a very cold day, you would want to keep as much heat as possible inside the cylinder.
To satisfy my curiosity, I have been trying to figure how the "colder" plug affects the engine. The NGK technician said the colder plug could cause hard starting. I'm trying to avoid hard starting. So, if I believe this technician, I should switch to the hotter plug.