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Spinning Lug nut and stud

13K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  Monroe74 
#1 ·
Today, I wanted to take the wheels off my trailer but ran into a dilemma on one wheel. 4 Lug nuts came off okay, the other lug nut just keeps spinning along with it's stud. My question is how do I remove it. My friend said just to torch it off, but seeing that I don't have access to a torch, I can't do it unless I want to take it to a shop. I thought about cutting the nut off with an angle grinder then take a nail punch and hit the stud through the other side, but I wasn't sure if that would damage it even more. Is it worth messing with, or should I take it to someone who can torch it? Thanks Andy.
 
#11 ·
Have you taken the drum off already? If you take the axle bearing off it should come off with the wheel and exposing the back of the drum so you can grind the stud off.
I dont even have the wheel off yet, because of the spinning nut and stud. I think I'll end up cutting the nut off. Hopefully then I can take the wheel off and hit the stud through with a hammer.
 
#13 ·
To get the wheel and drum off without removing the wheel.
1 remove dust cap from axle
2 loosen nut inside axle
3 remove washer
4 pull wheel and brake drum will come off with wheel also a tapered roller bearing will drop out.
It will be a good idea to clean and repack bearing and inspect brakes and wiring if trailer is equip.
 
#14 ·
To get the wheel and drum off without removing the wheel.
1 remove dust cap from axle
2 loosen nut inside axle
3 remove washer
4 pull wheel and brake drum will come off with wheel also a tapered roller bearing will drop out.
It will be a good idea to clean and repack bearing and inspect brakes and wiring if trailer is equip.
What he said...
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#15 ·
To get the wheel and drum off without removing the wheel.
1 remove dust cap from axle
2 loosen nut inside axle
3 remove washer
4 pull wheel and brake drum will come off with wheel also a tapered roller bearing will drop out.
It will be a good idea to clean and repack bearing and inspect brakes and wiring if trailer is equip.
I did what you said, and it seemed to work pretty good. I don't have brakes on my trailer so I didn't worry about that part. I just took the whole wheel/rotor to a shop and he charged me $15 bucks to torch the old stud out and put a new one in. The only thing I have left to do is put the bearings back in.
- When I took out the washer it had a tit on it. Im not sure which way it should be facing. I thinking towards the nut, but I thought I'd ask. Also found it funny there was no cotter pin. Not even a hole in the nut for one.
Thanks everyone for your help thus far.
 
#20 ·
Definitely not right clean everything up check your bearings after they are clean.
They should move freely no snagging there should be no burn marks and no pitting on the bearing or the races.
Only thing i can tell from pic is one of two things happened the bearing was put on to tight or it wasnt greased enough most trailer recommend greasing the axles every 3k cheaper ones more often.
 
#21 ·
During the off season I take a day or two and just tear down the trailer and replace all the bearings, clean and inspect everything wiring, lights and all, then give it a good cleaning and paint job, that usually gets me through the season with little to no trailer maint, put new tires on her last oct to. I see so many guys that their trailers look like they just came out of a war zone.
 
#22 ·
You need to spot weld the stud you replaced. When the stud spun in the hub it removed metal and the press fit will not be as tight and will spin again.
 
#23 ·
Well turns out that washer with the broken teeth on it is called a Tang washer.. Never heard of them until just now. Anyways, I picked a replacement up and put everything back together.
Last thing I wanted to ask was when you grab the left and right or top and bottom sides of the tire, is it alright is they move a little? Not overly sloppy by any means. Just enough to hear it move a tad when you try and move it?
 
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