I have used 46-0-0 in the past. if you mix 4 bags and spray 100k you will get .92 lbs of N per k

 

Yepper...8 bags per tank is close enough for kosher.

 

2.17 lbs. of urea is 1 lb. of N/M. 2.17 * 43.56=94.52 lbs./A. This echos what the others said, just in different terminology. I figure 2 bags to the acre is a lb., 1 bag is a 1/2 lb., 1/2 bag is a quarter lb. etc... Makes the math a lot easier and it's easy to remember.
FWIW, a lb. of straight urea is usually a little hot and won't do you a lot of favors. Everyone has their own opinion on rates, and I know you guys do it different in the south, but I'd run .75 lbs. Or, what I like is a 1/2 lb. of urea and a 1/2 lb. of UFlexx, for some slow release without breaking the bank.

 

46-0-0 sounds like bear urine. I havent used an N higher than 36 w/ my pre emergents. Hows the results look at 2 gal/k?

 

Archie,
I spray a lot of urea. Admitedly, I learned at True Green. We burned a lot of lawns. And we were spraying at about 4 gallons per thousand SQFT. At two gallons per minute you would be twice as concentrated. Fine, below 60 degrees--but when its hot--a sure scorch.
Unless you are using some kind of slow release nitrogen--you need 3 gallons water per 1000 sqft. I helped write the fill chart at TG. Apply in 3 (at least) gallons of water: no more than .9 lbs nitrogen below 70 degrees, no more than .75 lbs up to 80, no more than .5 lbs per 1000 sqft above 80 degrees.

Chemlawn gun only-white or green nozzle. Keep your spraying pressure low--no more than 100 lbs at the reel. Do not concentrate the spray or double cover any areas.

And if you add urea to tank you will need some degree of agitation to get it into solution. Keep a canoe paddle handy. If you suck urea into your filter before it dissolves, your pump will not work and there will be no agitation. And Urea usually contains some insoluble contaminants--which will tend to plug up your filter, later in the day.

 

Thanks for the information. We are spraying 1000 sq ft per 35 seconds. Your info is very informative.

Thanks
Archie

 

i mix mine in a slury before adding to the tank in a 5 gal bucket, once the urea is disolved, it stays disolved, moderate agitation is needed to keep it suspended. i've let mine set a week and hade very little if any settling out on the bottom of the tank. also check out gregson clark, their a sponser and have a strainer that sets in the top of the tank and you fill it with your product and it disolves in it, so as not to clog anything during the disolving prosses. as far as spraying goes i run 2gal/k 1# N and have had good luck (in the fall, NOT the summer) and .25 -.5 N in the spring apps. i've always used NBN as a slow release liquid, this year i'm going the try UFLEXX, stuff is alot cheaper, hope the results are good.

 

Mixing it in hot water helps, too. I mix it in 5 gal. buckets with water as hot as I can get it. You can mix it straight into sparge agitation, but do it VERY slowly with the agitation running or else the prills will get drawn into the suction line and plug up the filter on back into the tank. From personal experience, don't do this. It's a PIA to get cleaned out. But like Teeca says, once it's dissolved, it's good to go. I think Gregson Clark makes some type of sock that fits into the tank fill that filters it until it's into suspension. Might be worth looking into.

 

Heres a tip. If you have a basket strainer on your sprayer (which you all should have), just fill your strainer with the urea. A slow steam of water will dissolve it in no time while filling your tank. No pre-mixing in buckets. No hot water. Simple. Fast. Easy.

 

My 2 cents

While many companies do spray straight 46-0-0 on lawns and get away with it. I can not agree with that practice. There are 13 other elements known to help plants grow and they should also be used in some percentage to Nitrogen. N P K are not the only elements in Fertilizer.

 

i do add SOP, Fe, and a mico pac to all of my apps., along with whatever control product is needed at that app.

 

I use 46 in my first two apps of the year.... but not as much as some have suggested. My goal here in the south-east transition zone is improved color at this time of year and not so much N as to set myself up for Brown-patch problems in a couple of months. I use .25-.50 lbs per 1000 s/f. Iron is another option - but hell on the pumps. Fill your screen and break it down as you fill - it will be dissolved long before you finish filling (unless you use 8 bags). Good luck.