Spring Lawn Renovation

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by Phishook, Mar 10, 2004.

  1. Phishook

    Phishook LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,143

    I've got around one acre that is asking for a $$ to totally renovate the lawn.
    What are my options to do this?

    The lawn consists of fine and tall fescue's, bent grass, and 35% crabgrass come July. There are also several places that need filled in.

    My thinking is have some one kill everything. Then go in and aerate 2-3 passes. Then seed, followed with a starter fert.

  2. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,497

    Yes, but get on it fast, if your soil temps are reaching mid 50's, consistently down there. Inevitibally, you are GOING to have some new crabgrass germinate with it. This is where crucial timing comes in. After you get a good establishment, and if conditions have been right (plenty of consistent water to keep the soils moist EVERYDAY - CONSISTENTLY, You will then know that after about a month, you have utilized about 100% of your seed (that is going to germinate successfully). At this time, any crabgrass that has started, can be treated with Drive75. This HAS to be before it's 4 leaf stage, though! Also, don't just go with starter fert.. Hit it again two weeks later with starter again (Or something like 24-5-11 if you have some pretty good establishment). This will make a TREMENDOUS difference. Also, when you DO fert it, hit it HARD, about 1 1/2 times the rate.
    Oh, and one more thing, don't skimp on the seed! If you are using a turf type tall Fescue for instance (HIGHLY recommended), go with about 8-10 pounds per M. I've done several in the Springtime, due to grub damage, or several other conditions, and have had great success. The KEY is the water. It makes all the difference in the world, because with it, all the greatest seed in the world, and all the greatest fert. in the world doesn't mean SQUAT when the seed is just sitting there in dry soil half the time, or worse yet, when it DOES pop, and then just die, because it goes dry for a couple of 1/2 days. This is SO common among customers that care for the new seed themselves. They see new seed germinating and a the fine hairs of grass coming in, and say to themselves. "Success! Now, I can back off on my watering, since I've got grass growing, now!" This is why you have to explain this to them how CRUCIAL it is to keep that soil DAMP at all times! I cannot stress that enough to people. I hope this helps, and good luck with it!
  3. Phishook

    Phishook LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,143

    So roughly he'd be looking at a $2000-3000 bill after the everything was said and done?
  4. NateinAtl

    NateinAtl LawnSite Member
    from Atlanta
    Messages: 121


    If you take this job, make him sign something that says your only guarantee is the work you will do. Make sure you have in there that there is NO GUARANTEE on germination. There is no way you will get the maximum results by just aerating, seeding, and fert. It probably has crappy soil and a bad PH level. Not to mention that watering an acre everyday until germination is next to impossible.

    All of this info comes to you from Trey Anistasio. He says good luck.
  5. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,497

    We come in at around $70 per M to slitseed. This includes the first starter ap. So, you'd be looking at around $3000. With this much area, all at once, you COULD go down, a bit.
    Seed 8# per M = 352#. @ $55 per bag, x 7 bags = $385.
    Starter fert. 6 bags (1 1/2x the rate) @ $10.? = $60.
    Rental of slit seeder (unless you own yours). around $100.
    Total cost............ $555.

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