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SRM 225 help pls

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Torunksu, Aug 8, 2013.

  1. Torunksu

    Torunksu LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    Hello everybody,

    I'm new to the forum and had a question. I checked the search, couldn't find anything completely relevant to my prob. Here goes:

    I bought an echo srm 225 about a year, almost 2 years ago. Ran great until about 2.5 weeks ago where it started to shut off after running for about 30 minutes. this running time shortened drastically until it eventually wouldn't run anymore. So i whipped out the tools and carb cleaner and went to work on the carburetor. took it apart and sprayed it with carb cleaner then put it back together. the gaskets and the plastic valve piece under the primer/purge body remained intact so i left them. since then i wasn't able to prime it. so today i changed the primer/purge body, the fuel lines, spark plug primer bulk, spark arrestor and air filter. cleaned out the gas tank and added fresh fuel.

    It primes but now i cant get the damn thing to start lol. Anybody have any suggestions or insight to this? I know echos aren't the greatest brand for trimmers etc but buying a new one isn't really an option for me at the moment.

    Thanks in advance, all help is greatly appreciated.
  2. Torunksu

    Torunksu LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    Update and observations: i have been able to get it to run for a second by priming it then pulling the cord in cold start until it tries to start and then pulling the cord in run. but it shuts off after a second or 2. the return fuel line which i believe is the yellow on has some air pockets in them which don't seem to go away completely with priming. also, i replaced the fuel lines, fuel and air filter and spark plug before i took apart the carburetor and have been able to run it with them before the problem got worse.
  3. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Messages: 2,248

    Remove the antispark screen in the muffler, if it has one. Check the exhaust port in the engine block. If carbon buildup is present, lower the piston to BDC. Remove the plug and introduce constant air, if possible, then scrape carbon from port--the introduced air blowing the carbon out. I use a sturdy dental pick to do this, taking care to avoid scratching the piston or cylinder wall.

    Blow air through the muffler--if there is not a relatively free flow of air, put the muffler on a concrete block and fill the muffler with 2 stroke fuel. Light the muffler on fire with a torch and let the fire burn out. Repeat the process a couple of times. After the muffler is cool, tap on it with a large screwdriver to loosen carbon and blow out with air. If you are concerned, light the fire with a long stick.

    If you have a acetylene bud for a torch set, that is an option for the fire process.

    It's not often that I find a carbon loaded muffler but I did have one in earlier in the week.
  4. Torunksu

    Torunksu LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    thanks ill try this out
  5. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,275

    You didn't mention cleaning screen in carb an removing the needle and blowing out that hole. Neither did you mention removing the high and low needles and blowing out holes. My bet it is carb and keep in mind you never needto replace carb on echo. They can be fixed.
  6. Torunksu

    Torunksu LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    i took it apart again cleaned the exhaust port and torched the muffler its pretty clean now even thought its black on the outside. got some decent airflow through it. i also went over the carb again and discovered what might be the problem. My intake insulator is cracked. which i didnt notice until i took it off. so after the replacement comes hopefully it will run
  7. Torunksu

    Torunksu LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    Update: i replaced the intake insulator and was able to run the weed wacker. seemed to be running great for about 2 minutes but i heard some rattling which seemed to be coming from the inside.

    so i took off the muffler and checked & shook it and found nothing upon putting it back on. so i started it again and this time it sounds great in cold start but when i switch to run and pull it begins to start then just dies.

    any ideas guys? i feel like im so close to having it running 100% again. hope i dont have to order parts again that **** takes forever lol
  8. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,275

    So you still haven't found adjustment needles for carb?
  9. Torunksu

    Torunksu LawnSite Member
    Messages: 9

    no i didnt see anything to adjust i checked the needles attatched to the throttle assembly and the small pins and needles and 1 spring under the cover on the reverse side of the carb. nothing seems to be adjustable there.

    as far as i can tell everything on those 2 assemblies operate really smoothly and there is no buildup on the filters there as well. im no expert though. i have taken them apart, cleaned and reassembled them with no problems earlier.

    the only adjustment to be made as far as i can tell is the throttle screw, which was set to a good position before it broke down. im not sure if it has to be moved again.
  10. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,064

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