I have been checking out the forum for months and its great. so I had a question I wanted directly answered.
I got a spot in my lawn I had to dig big tree roots and rocks out of and had to replace it with top soil 6 inches deep.
I am ready to plant the seed. as far as fertilizers go.....should I lay the fertilizer in the dirt and mix it up before planting or sprinkle it on the top before or after seeding.
remember now this is 2 spots where they are about 4X5 feet. I am using tall fescue and the soil is a dark clay like soil. I have been adding humic acid and kelp in it.
right now I got espoma 5-10-5....should I get something better and then switch up the ratio of fertilizer if I was going to give it one more application before winter.
Espoma is 5-10-5 is fine. I am not fussy about the brand for starter. Mix it in anytime. It will not hurt the seed.
Defiance Tall fescue will work well. However, fescue does not spread or self-repair. Be sure to use plenty of seed. 8 pounds per thousand sqft. Use even more if conditions are less than perfect, to compensate for below normal germination. Include about 10 percent Kentucky bluegrass to give the result more ability to self-repair. Do not include any ryegrass as it will crowd out the good seed--and then die in next summer's heat.
I am not sure if this has been planted already or not, but using a higher phosphorous % will help establish a root structure, (the middle number) also cover with some straw will help hold moisture to the seed and help the germination process, I am not sure if you guys over there have had any issues with sod webworm, but it will eat newly germinated grass, and is something we have been fighting strongly in Wisconsin this year due to dryness and heat issues. Also as for starter fertilizer in Wisconsin, we are allowed (by law) to apply 5 applications per growing season, look into this as you may be able to apply one more time this season!
Best of luck to your new grass!
next application should I change from the starter fertilizer to another ratio. when you say webworm do you mean worms or the spider like webs that can come into the grass?
I got a liquid fertilizer that is organic that is 16-4-8.
the watering process is what I seem not to get. I do keep the soil most but dont allow it to get soggy or mud up. however when you water new grass as it is establishing I knock the grass over. lol. with the water.
I would stay away from the liquid fert. until next year as it is very easy to burn off new grass with a liquid application. The 5-10-5 would be the best choice out of those two products you have listed, but when I put a new lawn in or repair a section we use 18-24-12 with any new seed I lay down.
When I talk about sod webworm it is a little whiteish tan moth that will fly up out of your yard when walking around. The moth is the adult stage of the critter, the larvea is the little bugger that eats the leaves of grass, it is common for them to eat newly budding grasses, also webworm is not found everywhere and I am not sure if you have it out where you are.
Oh, also if the soil is a less clay type and more sand type water for 15-25 min per night for 30 days then I recommend every other day for an additional 2 weeks then every third day for 3 more weeks, and make sure its covered with a straw or another type of material
oh ok. so water new grass for 15-25 minutes a night? right now I am doing two spots about 5x6 foot. I am thinking about getting the pennington starter which is or close to 18-24-12. I have a clay like soil but is drains better than any clay I have seen. should the fertilizer be put in eve or below the seed? thanks again man.
That would be very suitable but also watch it if 15-25 min. Creates a drowning effect, water less, if it rains you most likely will not have to water, hope this helps good luck! Posted via Mobile Device
I wouldn't spend a lot of effort playing with fertilizers for seed... I don't know what Zone you're in but up here, in heavy soils you can mix in your fertilizer and seed, soak it down, then thereafter sprinkle it in the middle of the day when the surface starts to dry and you should be just fine... I don't see your tiny grass seeds using up all this fertilizer you keep talking about...
I planted. I have little pieces coming up here and there. I got a mist setting and whenever it dries out I mist the top and when it dries out I do it again because I am able to right now. I am keeping it moist all day without overwatering, flooding or messing with the integrity of the lawn bed.
I got my starter fertilizer planted below where I put the grass seed. I live in pa. would have liked to went with a different starter but didnt.
That's not your fault there are so many factors that play into that and who knows what was all done while the camera wasn't rolling! Posted via Mobile Device
not to hijack but what rate are you guys going with on your 18-24-12? 1 lb N or 1 lb P? I've normally go with about 5 lbs per 1000 to get a good nutrient start.
I've always gone with right around the 4lb per 1000, so what do you think would be the best he is from over in pa. I would gladly take some more input to help him out! Posted via Mobile Device
the thing is I took out all the dirt about 6 inches deep in two spots about 4x5 foot or so and replaced the top soil. they were infested with big tree roots and so many smaller ones. those two spots are what I am growing now. however I do have a whole lawn.
when it comes to smaller areas like that it gets confusing with the lbs per 1000ft.
I got small patches of seeds coming up nice. some patches nothing has came up yet.
thanks again for the input.
you are talking about the application after the stater fertilizer.
Core aerating, with an over seed the first year after a new lawn then just every other year aerating would be good. Posted via Mobile Device
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