Hello folks, I know this is an old discussion, but thought I'd add my two dusty cents just in case it may help anyone looking at this site for information... I have been cutting cedar trees for several years now. I generally work in the Nebraska/South Dakota area. If you're not familiar; cedar trees are basically an invasive tree that can overtake and ruin pastureland if allowed to. Cedar trees can, and do, make a good windbreak. Otherwise, they'll reduce good pasture to junk fairly soon if ignored. (And you get the pleasure of still paying taxes on your land as if it's still capable of producing the same range grass for livestock.) I'd conservatively say I've cut tens of thousands of them. The trees I work on are usually around 8-10 ft. tall or less. The large majority of those are 5' or less. I've used Stihl FS 560 CEM's (two of them, just in case) and a FS 460 CEM for the past 3 years. I basically crawled up the food chain to more powerful saws until I stopped at the FS 560s. I can't and won't say the Stihl FS 560 is better or worse than any other make/model. It has worked great for me. I sometimes use the 460 for small trees/light work. This model is lighter, the gas run time is considerably longer, and much quieter. However, I find that I almost always use one of the 560's. Reason for this is simple...Raw Power! These things run (and sound) like a dragster. Instant power and blade acceleration upon the tap of the accelerator. That is a tremendous advantage for my type of work. I quickly go from tree to tree, cutting, inspecting that I've made a proper cut, making any additional adjusted cuts as necessary to ensure that particular tree will never grow in any form again. The ability to instantly accelerate the blade, then let it go back to idle, then accelerate to cutting speed is indispensable to me. I generally figure about 5 seconds per tree unless it is a special case. ABOUT BLADES: I have gone through MANY different types of blades until I found my current blades. I absolutely won't tell you what to use or not use. I'll simply tell you my experience and let you decide for yourself. What I have to say next is NOT a money maker for me in any way, nor am I related in any way to the company that produces them. I have simply found them to be the very best blades I've come across. That said... I exclusively use Renegade brand blades. I purchase them through Amazon, but I know they are available elsewhere. You can find a proper description of the blades on Amazon. No, I don't own Amazon, either... I started with the Renegade blades that looked similar to trim saw blades. Those things are so sharp that I'd (almost) swear that trees fell over from fright as I approached them. Then I went with another type of Renegade blade that was introduced. It's a burgundy colored blade called the Renegade Razor. Holy Cow! (Almost) Everyone knows that a chainsaw chain gets dull VERY quickly when it is introduced into dirt. I know this blade is not a chainsaw chain, but it can be seen as similar tool to cut trees down. I've used these blades for around 2-3 years and found that the blades are normally around (an estimated) 85% as sharp at the end of a 10-12 hour day of cutting trees as it was when new. This is taking into consideration that each and every cut puts blade into dirt, mud, snow, frozen dirt, rocky soil, etc. Oh, yeah,,, don't forget the cedar tree wood. Every single cut... Multiply that by hundreds and hundreds of trees every day. And still usually sharp enough to use the next day and be pleasurable to use and efficient for the client. The reason that I switched to (and stayed with) the Renegade Razor is simply because for my use they stayed sharper longer than the earlier model blade. Caution! Do Not tangle with those green "T" posts. They'll take the teeth off a blade just as fast as you can imagine. Of course, these blades shouldn't be confused with chainsaws. Try cutting down too big a tree and expect to overheat the blade. Then replace it... Of course, I will try new models of the Renegade blades in case a new design might work better. For now, the Razor is it for me and my application. I don't want to step on anyone's toes, but I use a Stihl blade if it's included in something I buy. For my purposes, they generally work great for about 10 minutes, decently for the next five minutes, full on suck for a few more minutes until I quit wasting my time and put a Renegade Razor on again. And the Stihl blades are ungodly expensive for no better than they work for me. Your experience may differ. Just saying the truth as I've experienced it... Harness: Yes, the Husqvarna harness is the gnat's ass! Well done to the folks that designed it. You don't need to buy a Husky cutter to get the harness. You can find them on Amazon. Believe me, money well spent! I have a fairly long (can you believe it?) review on Amazon under the name ndrzdad. Nobody's asked, but you can likely tell by now that I'll offer an opinion without being coerced... Hearing protection...These machines are dadgummed LOUD! I bought a set of Bose quiet comfort headphones a couple years ago. They work great at reducing the dragster open header type roar near one's ears. Quiet enough to really attenuate noise, but loud enough to hear how the machine is working. Additionally, they let you listen to music and hear any phone calls that come in. Nope. Don't own Bose either. They just work great for me and keep my hearing (such as it is) intact. There you have it. My abbreviated thesis on a high quality brush cutter. Absolutely great blades. And headphones to make the day go by with a little musical comfort. I selected to receive email notifications just in case a question comes up that I can help with. Please don't bother to say something that you wouldn't say to the face of a guy who walks miles up and down hills on a regular basis with around 35-40 lbs of equipment on his back. That said...Have a good day!