Ok, I posted my interest in this over the last few weeks on a couple of threads. I had the opportunity to take my mower apart this weekend and I went ahead and took step-by-step photos of the install. Here is the write up for anyone interested in doing this for their machine. I have a 2002 Gravely 48" WB. PARTS w/Quantities: ROLLER - (1) $13.70 - http://www.mcmaster.com/ (type in 1045 in search box for complete roller list) * Length will vary on the units, I used a 39" * Galvanized steel, 1.9" diameter, 7/16" hex axel" BRACKETS - (2) $4 (I used zinc coated mending plates from Lowes) * Any thick metal bracket can be used HARDWARE - $6 All stainless steel 5/16" hardward was used * (4) - 1" hex head bolts * (8) - flat washers * (4) - nylon thread lock bolts * (4) - large fender washers (not to exceed the diameter of the roller) * (2) - cotter/hitch pins INSTALL PROCEDURE STEP 1 - Determining what length roller: I measured the distance between the rear scalp wheel housings. My exact "Between Frame BF) distance was 39". I ended up ordering the 39" roller which worked fine, but if I was doing it again, I would have ordered the one that was about 1/4" shorter. Take your time and make sure you measure correctly. Drill a small hole in each end of the axel that is sticking out of the roller to accept the cotter pin. STEP 2 - Determining mounting location: This will vary from unit to unit. Take the brackets and find a good spot to mount the roller. I mounted mine between the two rear anti-scalp rollers. There were pre-drilled holes that I used on one side and then had to drill a couple additional to make the roller even. I took the brackets and cut them down to about 6" long. This will give me enough room to move them up and down according to the depth of cut. I have it set so I can mow between 3-3.5" which is where I cut all the time. The mending plates have pre drilled holes which worked nicely for fastening them to the deck. Once cut to length, use a grinder to round over both ends to ensure it won't get caught on anything. STEP 3 - Attaching axel to brackets: Using a 1/2" drill bit, drill out the bottom hole to make it fit over the 7/16" axel. Slide a fender washer, bracket, another fender washer and a cotter pin over the axel. Repeat this for the other side. I went ahead and added some additional Oil to the bearing in the roller. The slick thing about these conveyor rollers is that the axel is spring loaded, so when it's attached to the mower, you can remove the cotter pin and washers and simply press in the axel and remove the roller for oiling without having to completely disassemble the unit. STEP 5 - Fitting the roller to the deck: Take the completed assembly over to the deck and test fit it in the mounting location. Once the location is determined, use the hardware to begin attaching it to the deck. I had to drill a couple of additional holes to make it sit level. The rule of thumb I used for the mounting depth was to have the TOP of the roller be level with the BOTTOM of the deck. (As viewed whe the deck is upright. This allows the roller to be about 1/2" off the ground when mowing at 3". Again, this will vary on your cutting habits and the machine you are installing this on. STEP 6 - Attaching the roller to the deck: Using the bolts, flat washers, and lock nuts attach the brackets to the deck. Put loctite on the threads and tighten completely. Re-attach the deck to the mower, an you are ready to go. Here are a couple shots of the finished product. BACK: SIDE: TOP: Here are some pics of the stripes!! This is my back yard. This is part of the common area that I mow regularly. This is mostly crap grass and weeds. It still stripes the hell out of it!! If anyone has any questions, feel free to e-mail me. The total cost of the kit was $27 including shipping for the roller and about 1 hour of labor. Not bad considering the commercial kits are $300. :blob1: :blob3: Enjoy the stripes!!!!