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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Posted a couple weeks back on belt rolling off on Cub Enforcer 48. Still not back together. Suggested replace spring as it might be weak, did that, it was a lot weaker than one on machine, but still no go, belt still rolled off after about 3-4 feet under load. Had someone pointed out it looked like he saw on main pulley a dent in it. Went back and double checked and sure enough in two spots there was a slight dent/open spot. I know it doesn't take much so ordered one in.

Got the new pulley and began working to get the pulley off. Of course it aint coming easy. So, Shot w/ PB blaster Penetrating oil, soaked an hour, shot again, soaked for a bit, banged with hammer, nothing, Put my gear puller on it using an 18" torque wrench, nothing. Got the torch out, heated it up, banged it, shot with oil, see if the heat might let more get in, heated again an hour later, torqued it and still not budging.

Anyone have any suggestions? I've never had one this hard to get off!
 

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I have seen mechanics heat a stuck part up and then use a spray bottle of water to “quench” (shock) the pieces apart. Don’t know if this will work, might be worth a try. Good luck.
 

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You might want to look at a parts diagram to see if you're missing a clip or set screw that needs to be pulled.

What I've done before...
Yes heat it up, then take an ice cube to the center bolt...
Heat the outside, cool the inside...
Several cycles worth, the idea is to coax the PB Blaster into penetrating.

On the note of a gear puller...
Once you get it on tight, hit the bolt of the gear puller itself but careful!
You can hit them pretty good but if it comes off it can jump out like it's spring loaded, also if you hit that bolt too hard it can mushroom (I've put a socket on it to keep from doing that, but it might ruin the socket)...
Last but not least, bigger puller, and instead of turning it by hand hit it with a 1/2 impact.

Just some of my tricks.
 

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You got a few good suggestions there, not much that I can add....

As was mentioned, I would check for a set screw on the top side of the pulley.

Is the key still on the shaft ? depending on how the key way was cut, if it was done with a key way cutter, it will have a little ramp end, if the key was forced up for some reason, it will act like a wedge. Remove it if you can if you haven't already.

Any nicks or burs on the shaft ? File or grind them down.

Do you know any full time mechanics ? See if they have a top of the line SnapOn or Mac air hammer you can borrow. If you can get one, you will need a socket adapter shank, 1/2 inch dr. This way you can use a socket to turn your puller while hammering it.....

One caveat, if you are going to use the blue wrench down there, heat the pulley, not the shaft. Too much heat on the crank shaft can damage the oil seal on the engine......
.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You got a few good suggestions there, not much that I can add....

As was mentioned, I would check for a set screw on the top side of the pulley.

Is the key still on the shaft ? depending on how the key way was cut, if it was done with a key way cutter, it will have a little ramp end, if the key was forced up for some reason, it will act like a wedge. Remove it if you can if you haven't already.

Any nicks or burs on the shaft ? File or grind them down.

Do you know any full time mechanics ? See if they have a top of the line SnapOn or Mac air hammer you can borrow. If you can get one, you will need a socket adapter shank, 1/2 inch dr. This way you can use a socket to turn your puller while hammering it.....

One caveat, if you are going to use the blue wrench down there, heat the pulley, not the shaft. Too much heat on the crank shaft can damage the oil seal on the engine......
.
I looked on a couple of different sites and the only thing shown is the keyway. Interesting comment on removing it, I had thought of that but wasn't sure it could be knocked out. As they do shear off on backfires sometimes and such I will give it a shot. Interesting thought on using impact drive. It's only HD battery drive but haven't came across anything it didn't work on yet.
Thanks for the tips!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You might want to look at a parts diagram to see if you're missing a clip or set screw that needs to be pulled.

What I've done before...
Yes heat it up, then take an ice cube to the center bolt...
Heat the outside, cool the inside...
Several cycles worth, the idea is to coax the PB Blaster into penetrating.

On the note of a gear puller...
Once you get it on tight, hit the bolt of the gear puller itself but careful!
You can hit them pretty good but if it comes off it can jump out like it's spring loaded, also if you hit that bolt too hard it can mushroom (I've put a socket on it to keep from doing that, but it might ruin the socket)...
Last but not least, bigger puller, and instead of turning it by hand hit it with a 1/2 impact.

Just some of my tricks.
Interesting idea on icing the shaft. I have been coating it with the PB for a day and half now with the puller under pressure, was hoping when I got up this morning it would all be laying on the ground lol, no such luck. I'm using a 7 ton evertough puller, would think its enough since it was biggest I could find when I got it. Another person mentioned using an impact wrench so going to try that also. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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Interesting idea on icing the shaft. I have been coating it with the PB for a day and half now with the puller under pressure, was hoping when I got up this morning it would all be laying on the ground lol, no such luck. I'm using a 7 ton evertough puller, would think its enough since it was biggest I could find when I got it. Another person mentioned using an impact wrench so going to try that also. Thanks for the suggestions.
You'll definitely take it to the next step with that impact, just be careful where you position yourself as you hit it because like I said when it comes off it can let loose like it's spring loaded and come jumping at you (usually they come off in a straight line, so best to stand to the side while hitting it with the impact, standing to the opposite end would be optimal but I don't know if it will let you do that).
 

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I looked on a couple of different sites and the only thing shown is the keyway. Interesting comment on removing it, I had thought of that but wasn't sure it could be knocked out.
I use my biggest vise grip to lock on to the key, then tap it down with a hammer to get it off. "If" you have a set screw in the pulley, it will be aligned with the key way.
.
 
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