Suggestions on spraying..

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by JustinFL, Aug 10, 2017.

  1. JustinFL

    JustinFL LawnSite Member
    Messages: 18

    If I had my own yard I'd be experimenting all the time lol. I have an apartment though. And yes I spot spray weeds. I don't agree you should broadcast spray herbicide unless it's a pre-em. What's your reasoning there out of curiosity? In my opinion unless you're turf is that full of weeds(in which case you're doing something wrong elsewhere) there's no need for it and it's just a waste of product. My weed rate is about 2 gallons per thousand. I use a 24 gallon tank with an electrical pump, not my skid sprayer...

    I'm not sure what you mean by the way I do things needs a different plan/technique. And yes I fertilize with dry, but use liquid too. Dry twice a year and liquid twice a year.

    I actually have two licenses lol. Working on a 3rd for structural pest control. I'm not an expert though. I've only been doing this 2 and a half years, have learned a lot in that time but still have much more to learn. Either way I can see why you'd question me. I don't think I'm coming off right and maybe worded my question wrong. I know how to calibrate equipment. But calibrating it doesn't fix the way I spray. I'm just trying to see other opinions on what people think about the rate I use and what others spray at. I feel like I'm just slow as hell. And how do I retrain myself to spray differently, but still get proper coverage? What's the "right" way to spray if there is one(as far as walking speed and gun movement etc.)? Are you guys that spray insecticides and liquid ferts etc. at 1-3 gallons a k getting good results?

    As far as my last boss, turf was actually his specialty. He was a very smart guy. But it was a community HOA like where I work now, with 3 technicians including me. So we had plenty of time to spray the way he taught us(well the way he taught 2 of us, the other tech sprayed much faster and wasn't taught by him). It wasn't really an issue.

    I really don't see a problem with a 10gal/per K rate as far as the grass is concerned(aside from herbicide, obviously that's too much carrier for that). I never questioned it when I worked there. I never had an issue with it, always got good results. It's only an issue for me now because I switched jobs and I'm the only tech and have many more responsibilities there(irrigation for one). I don't have the time to broadcast spray as much as I'd like because I'm constantly filling up so I'm hoping I can speed things up. The biggest reason I'm asking this is because I skipped my wall to wall preventative insecticide app this year due to lack of time and decided I'd spot treat. And now that's coming back to bite me. Seems like chinch bugs are worse than ever this year.
     
  2. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,443

    My concern with spot spraying is that the labor hours are more costly than the herbicide. Time consuming.
    Also, there can be a lot of weeds that are missed--not seen--or so small they will not be visible for two more weeks. If you have a long season, summer annuals like spotted spurge can go crazy, if the weather is hot.
     
    AGRinATX likes this.
  3. JustinFL

    JustinFL LawnSite Member
    Messages: 18

    That is true... here in Florida we do have a long season. I feel it's mostly preference, but you make me think...
     
  4. JustinFL

    JustinFL LawnSite Member
    Messages: 18

    So just an update, I bought the small and medium nozzles for my gun and tried and practiced spraying a bit faster. I settled on the medium nozzle as the small one doesn't put out enough IMO and the droplets are too small/like a mist for my liking. I calibrated it a dozen times and came out with 3.5 gallons/per 1000. WAY lower than what I was previously at. I'm going out right now with a wall to wall insecticide and micronutrient app and this new rate is gloriously better/more efficient.

    However, I'm still concerned with getting enough foliar uptake and getting enough insecticide down into the thatch layer especially for contact insecticides like bifenthrin. Even at 3.5/per 1000 which is still higher than what a lot of guys spray, I scoped out the grass after applying some areas and noticed many grass blades that weren't fully covered by the spray and only had droplets on them. For the more experienced guys, is that fine? It doesn't seem right to me. This is why I honestly don't get how some of you spray at .25/per 1000 and get results. Even for herbicides that seems extremely low. How much of the herbicide is actually contacting the weed with a rate like that....

    I don't know, I'll evaluate my results later on.
     
  5. AGRinATX

    AGRinATX LawnSite Member
    Messages: 78

    I second getting a boom sprayer for great coverage/time. I'm trying to get a Wylie walking boom next week. I also ask my clients to run their irrigation that night for pre/insecticide/fungicides that need to be moved down into the thatch layer.
     
  6. Tidewater Greenworks

    Tidewater Greenworks LawnSite Member
    Messages: 67

    I've always been told you need high volume, (2g/k+) for fungicide and insecticide treatments, but I've also talked to guys who run everything at 32oz/k out of a ride-on and their properties look great. It's harder to get low volume and good coverage when you're dragging a hose, of course.

    Fertilizer needs to be done at higher volumes because without enough carrier you're going to burn the leaves right off the grass. Insecticides need to be watered in by rain or irrigation no matter what volume you apply them at. Herbicides actually work better the lower volume of carrier you run them at, provided you're also getting good coverage of weeds. Most guys dragging a hose will around 1.5-2.5g/k depending on their preferred walking speed. With booms or fan-tip wands you can get lower, 0.5-1g/k depending on the setup.

    I run a 300g tank and spray out of the green lesco gun and yellow tip at 100psi out of the regulator, (ends up being around 70psi out of the gun, once it runs through 400' of hose). At a brisk but sustainable pace this gets me to 1.5g/k. A few of my commercial properties are 180k+, and most of my yards are in the 8-20k range. Spraying ~200k of turf is a comfortable day. The properties where I'm spraying 200k in one place are all cut up with little narrow patches of grass, (apartments, condos, HOA common areas) so I'm driving around and reeling in/out almost as much as I would be doing houses. With drive time, 20 houses is also a comfortable, 8hr day that leaves me time to do paperwork, make calls, etc. Refilling the tank during the day is not really an option for me, this is a wide suburban area and it's a 20m-30m drive to get anywhere. I could spray 5 houses in the time it would take me to get back to the shop and refill. I know this is not your situation, just giving you a little perspective on why most of us are trying to get as low volume as possible while still getting good coverage.

    Also, yes I realize I really need a ride on. :)
     
  7. That Guy Gary

    That Guy Gary LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 394

    Low volume works great for herbicides using a ride on/boom, never seen anyone do it from a hose.

    The efficiency of systemics is excellent because 100% of your material lands on the canopy.

    We don't have many lawn pests here that require contact insecticides to treat, billbugs are our biggest problem in SW Idaho. If I were to apply one with my ride on I think running a short irrigation cycle immediately after would get the material down where I want it.
     

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