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SuperZ VX4 or Gravely 460?

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by beaver29, May 24, 2012.

  1. StanWilhite

    StanWilhite LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,382

  2. mtmower

    mtmower LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,111

    No question the Kohler 28 efi is weak. It's ok on normal grass but add a bagger and or thatch rack and point it toward a hill and it's cross eyed. But the 24 Honda I feel is underrated. It did it all fine. Even bagger and thatch rake with hills. I wouldn't have wanted anything less powerful. It kicked the Kohlers butt, but it also liked to eat coils.
  3. mtmower

    mtmower LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,111

    Well mowed my first property with it today but only ran it at 3/4, varied, throttle for brake in. Haven't opened her up all the way yet for any period of time. Governor is real quick at responding.

    It wasn't the smoothest property but nothing uncommon. The 460 reminds me more of my old Exmarks or early Hustler with a shorter wheel base than my XR7. The frame is stiff and with tires at 12 psi rear and my optional pneumatics at 15 psi front it is still a stiff ride, of course my seat and so on is eating it all up quite well but front casters come of the ground faster on uneven ground and it really follows the ground contour. Front wheels are taller than the SZ. Feels quite compact after running my 66" for so long. It's strange to be able to have your back actually leaning against the seat cushion, nicely supported and not smacking you or giving you whiplash. Left a nice looking yard. It didn't seem to tear the turf as easily as my Hustlers when turning at the end of a run. Seemed to effect the turf around tree rings and such about the same as the Hustlers.

    The seat height is a little higher by about two to three inches compared to the SZ depending on what you have the air seat psi set to. Frame height is almost dead on. Engine sits about 3" lower in the frame of the SZ but the 460 is an isolated engine cradle. Rear approach angle is huge compared to the SZ and it's little anti-scalp wheelie wheels on back. I can back the 460 on my trailer. Never could back a SZ on my trailer. This may come in especially handy, for the few weeks of the year I bag, for dumping clippings in my trailer.

    Had some minor issues with accessories. I think part of it is just not having their print updated yet.





  4. StanWilhite

    StanWilhite LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,382

    That is one good looking mower...congrats!!!
  5. TLS

    TLS LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,943

    Looks good! Take more pics...under seat, dashboard, under deck, height gauge wheel.

    Gravely's site is horrendous for pictures.

    Don't care much for the guillotine OCDC.

    Not sure I like the square shouldered rear tires.

    Is the ROPS unboltable?

    Best of luck with it man!
  6. mtmower

    mtmower LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,111

    Thanks guys. Def. get you some pics.

    Here's a few more I took of under the deck and a few shots of the blades (MB brand?).

    The OCDC might be ok once I get it adjusted. A little stiff to slap it around on the fly. Lots of travel in the stick from full open to full close which is not adjustable . I never run a chute and will have to make this one disappear I believe. It's large (bigger than the standard fixed) and floppy enough that it flexes on rough ground which may effect the clipping dispersal if cutting really thick tall grass. I tried installing it without the chute but it's designed to rely on it, like a spacer, to keep the block plate centered in the slot. Without it the plate is swinging in the air above the slot and will not center in the slot on it's own to allow it to lower/close. I'm guessing this is done due to liability. I think If I get some conveyer belt rubber and a flat piece of steel and drill the three holes and slot it, installing it in place of the rubber chute, it should be good to go.

    So far the tires are impressing me other than being made in Taiwan rather than US. They have a little more siping then the Carlisles. They are .5" smaller than my SZs. On the yard I cut yesterday and the earlier demo they seemed to tear the turf less on end of pass changes.

    The steering sticks are stiffer than my SZs which does have over 1000 hrs on it and it seems to be hunting a little to keep a straight line over rough ground more than my SZ's. This may be due to not yet running at full throttle, break in, and the shorter wheel base.

    I still haven't been on a mower that had the operator position perfectly laid out. I'm just shy of 6' tall. I have the seat air adjusted, the armrest height and angle adjusted to my body, and seat all the way back (those over 6' may find the seat may not go back far enough), then I adjusted the sticks down one notch so they are like .5" higher than the armrests so my arms, wrists and hands are happy. The foot lift pedal I left in the center hole and I can just comfortably make it latch in to transfer position. My only negative is, with the deck at 3", if I rest my foot on the deck pedal, my thigh is all but touching the stick. Found this or a similar situation on about every mower I've tried. One positive to the higher seat height is that you are in more of a chair position which allows your legs to be at more of a 90 degree if desired. My SZ has my legs past a 90 degree, knees more in the air, not as comfortable.

    The ROPs I'll check on but I believe they would unbolt. Never had them on a mower and never thought I would but they are low enough in the folded position that so far they haven't interfered much and would/should just protect the seat back and air cleaner from damage. I'm getting too old to bend over much lower and bending over any lower than the seat back height is fruitless anyway. They are narrower than the tanks but in the rare situation that you are on a slope located close to an obstacle I guess it would be possible to have the machine lean to the side enough for the folded ROPs to make contact from the side.

    I know this is boarding on anal but I did pull about 9 bolts out of about 16 they insert into the top of the deck that extend through the bottom of the deck about 1/4 inch into the cutting chamber which are there for optional mulch kit install. I couldn't see all these extra nubs catching grass and causing more obstacle to scrape around. I purchased nylon bolts that were the same and cut them down so they are flush with the deck thus plugging the holes. Kept the original bolts and will throw them in the mulch kit box for when I try my first mulch kit! You can see a couple of white spots under the deck and this is what that is all about.








  7. ProStreetCamaro

    ProStreetCamaro LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,289

    The MB on the blades stands for marbane which is what the blades are made out of. They hold an edge better than el cheapo blades but they cost a small fortune to replace. That is why I buy the stens brand blades (ariens owns stens) and they are almost exact carbon copy of the oem marbane blades.
  8. mtmower

    mtmower LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,111

    Do you have any idea if the marbane hold up better or as well as the Oregon fusion blades.
  9. TLS

    TLS LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,943

    Nice! Mower porn!
    Posted via Mobile Device
  10. TLS

    TLS LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,943

    I've used MB (marbain) blades on my JD's and on my SCAG WB. They are great blades. I think they are lighter weight as well as being harder and stiffer.

    I do like Fusions though as they're easier to get and cheaper.
    Posted via Mobile Device

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