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The only downside to synthetic is it's cost. Otherwise it is superior to petroleum. I use Mobil 1 in my Kohler 25 and Kubota as well as my vehicles.
As far as additives go, I am not a big fan of them. If you use a quality synthetic they are not necessary. Stay away from Slick 50 and anything with PTFE's. It was never intended for use in and engine.
I have read that using anything with PTFE isn't good, but I've been using it for over 10 years now with no internal engine problems. I use Tufoil which has particles smaller than 1/2 a micron in size. My Amsoil 1 micron oil filter doesn't clog up using this, so the size must be correct. It will make any engine run cooler, which I feel is a great thing for air cooled engines. I didn't know how much it made them run cooler, but when I put it in my new diesel, the temperature dropped 10 degrees on a 90 plus degree day, so I could see a big difference there. This is very slick and less friction means less heat. I also use it in my truck and van. Even after reading about this on this forum before, I continue to use it and add it to a new engine after it is broke in. I notice more power and better mileage on road vehicles. If anyone wants to read about this product, this is the site. http://www.tufoil.com I'm not saying you all should use it, but I will continue to use it since I've had such good luck with it. None of my engines need oil added between oil changes, so it can't be all bad and some are 10 years old. I think it all depends on the size of the PTFE particles, but that is just my opinion.
My work truck never leaves town. Just a lot of short trips. I was wondering if I would have a moisture problem after leaving synthetic oil in for so long compared to changing conventional every month or two. I put additives in my Katana 1100 and it increased my top speed from 146mph to 150+mph. But that was when I was young and foolish.
Bought a used Walker in June and after running it for a few weeks I switched all the fluids over to Mobil 1. After running Mobil 1 in the engine,hydros,and the gear boxes everything seems to run much cooler than they did with regular motor oil. I'll stick with the Mobil 1.
Synthetic oils are a viable economic option only if you use the extended drain intervals that these oils allow. If you're running synthetics, with the increased cost, WHY stick with the normal change interval? Granted, synthetics will provide better wear charastics, but they are designed to provide those over the entire extended drain interval. I change yearly, in the fall, as part of my winterization process.
Isaw a very convinsing demo that involved
a drill press,havoline 10-30 and militeck.
It definitly reduced friction a lot.
Iuse it on motors ,bearings etc .
It is most effective in extending life
of old worn things.