Technique/Method for wand spraying tight areas

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by LDH, Nov 26, 2013.

  1. DA Quality Lawn & YS

    DA Quality Lawn & YS LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 9,296

    In my experience you would have to try pretty hard to turf burn with any mix - as long as you use your noggin you'll be fine.
  2. aaronmg

    aaronmg LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 357

    I have a 80 degree flat fan brass nozzle attached to a 42" stainless steel wand with a trigger and pressure valve. I do all the edges of a yard with the skid mixed with urea and the weed killer and finish off with the rider. I would like to think with this set up i get a higher percentage weed kill than 90% of the other companies out there.
  3. LDH

    LDH LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,262

    Thanks again guys for sharing the wisdom. Had a hard time explaining my question, but American got the nail on the head about AI per 1000. All I have ever done is drag a hose. My own personal method of calibrating has always been to measure off 20 x 50 of concrete, time myself spraying it with a gun, then hold the gun in a bucket afterwards for the same amount of time and tweak the pressure or change tips until I got the output I wanted. Usually 1.75 to 2 gallons per 1000.
    With the boom on the mower I can easily calibrate it as well. 8ft spray width, drive 125ft on concrete while timing with a stop watch, then capture all the water from all nozzles for that same amount of time, pour each mason jar into the same bucket (also making sure each mason jar filled evenly) and determine the entire output of the boom. 30 seconds to drive 125ft, all nozzles combined put out a total of half a gallon in 30 seconds = half a gallon per 1000. With a 15 gallon tank, 15 divided by .5 = 30,000 sq ft per tank.
    Providing I don't change my speed, pressure, or tips.
    I'm just a little skeptical about what my output is per 1000 when I kill the boom, jump off the mower, and shoot a swath around the stop sign in the yard, gas meter, telephone pole, or when I spray a swath down the sidewalk so that when I get back on the mower and turn the boom on I can stay a foot or two away from the concrete and not get dye everywhere.
    If you guys have any input or corrections to my calibration method or ideas let me know. I'm definitely here to learn take advice. Thanks, Larry
  4. ted putnam

    ted putnam LawnSite Platinum Member
    Messages: 4,748

    First off, a well calibrated Teejet fan tip nozzle will apply the correct amount each time. Nothing "hack job" about that. A cone nozzle is a recipe for disaster almost every time. The only reason you can run cone nozzles on your PRECIOUS T's is because it never gets hot enough in your area to do any damage to turf like it does here. You wouldn't last a day and a half here with cone nozzles on your ride on in July. Customers would be reaming your ass by noon on the second day about burned spots in the lawn.:laugh:

    Almost 7 years being on this site has taught me a lot. almost never make a post without talking about or making some kind of 10 second commercial on the T-3000. :hammerhead:

    For Pete's Sake.... Shut Up! The OP doesn't give a damn about your ride on. He already has his ride on of choice...

    Pinching off hoses is not a way of regulating your equipment Dipshit. It is a way of applying to small, intricate areas that you almost never run into without absolutely flooding them. Not everything is "cut and dried". Sometimes you have to improvise. You'd think that someone who's been in the business 35 years would have learned that by now....
  5. LDH

    LDH LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,262

    Any opinions on using a JD9 for the tight places instead of a wand? Reason I ask is because I already have a JD9 that's still new, never been used yet.
  6. aaronmg

    aaronmg LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 357

    I'm sorry... I keep getting sick here tonight....
  7. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,807

    Yardboss, I think you want a nozzle that delivers about half as much as your upfront nozzles per minute. This should compensate for the 5 mph speed, and walking at about 2.5 mph. Myself, I am fine with a cone nozzle, because you can move your arm. With a fan nozzle you arm is like a boom--you can't move it. Cannot move it up or down nor side to side.
    Clearly this will take a stopwatch and some experimentation. Practice with water on concrete until you get uniform coverage. It should dry evenly--impossible--but try.

    Does this type of gun allow you to vary the pressure on the trigger to safely treat skinny spots?
  8. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Messages: 5,955

    Ditto with Riggle. Wondering if a battery-powered backpack might be the easiest/most effective method for what Yardboss is looking for???

    We use Shurflo SRS600 backpacks with flat fan nozzle (they come with a cone nozzle, but we swap it out with a flat fan right away). Cone nozzles are fine if you're constantly moving. My T-Men actually prefer the cone nozzle while spraying on the fly -- especially cuz they can adjust the spray to shoot farther when needed, such as under trees, etc.

    I suggest buying a battery-powered backpack sprayer with a flat fan nozzle.
  9. LDH

    LDH LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,262

    Riggle and American, I think you guys have given me an answer to my problem. I like the idea of an electric backpack for trimming the edges and what not. The ability to wave with a cone nozzle vs a fan tip sounds a lot better to me. I will try both though. Thanks guys. What do those electric backpacks run price wise?

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