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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First I would like to thank all who replied last time I posted. I aerated and composted and seen almost immediate results. When I first started I couldn't't hammer a screwdriver in the ground. Now I can go anywhere in the yard and it will go in like butter. Its getting greener every day:cool2:

New problem, since I have been out there raking compost I notice VERY thin spots mostly along edges. I thought grubs. Did 2 treatments, one liquid (attached to the garden hose) and one granular about a month after. I have seen quite a few moths in the grass and they did disappear after I sprayed. I tried the soapy water thing and didn't see any worms. Is there a for sure way to know if its worms? With all my soil issues I hate to add anymore unnecessary chemicals. I also assume that it kills the earthworms too?...Am I even on the right track?



And one more problem...I one very thin area, there is some other kind of "grass, weed" overtaking the whole corner. Can anyone identify and recommend how to get rid of it. The pic looks bad I just spread more compost today.







Thanks for any input/advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I was thinking...(could be dangerous) that all of my "weak" areas are in "low spots" in the lawn. Could this happen from too much water? The grass is very green and wants to lay down like its too heavy. I guess thats why I never noticed until I started raking in the compost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know how you guys love pics so I'm going to try to get a response by posting lots of pics....as you can see I have alot of blood, sweat, and tears not to mention $$$ I will do anything to save the yard. I would love to pay someone but the truth is I dont think there are any capable people in this town. Every "professional" I've called all the way down to the Direct TV installation has been a nightmare. Service is not what it used to be...

OK some before and after pics...









These are the before/after I was here last with what I thought was fungus. You guys said it may be compaction...I aerated and composted





Finally a couple more pics I just took showing some of the "weak, thin" areas (needs to be mowed)



 

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LOL, Sorry. Looks like your lawn has come a long ways!!! Congrats. The pics with stuff circled doesn't show any problems I can see. Several pics show areas that appear to be yellowing. Looks dry. Grass type that you pulled looks like a warm season grass I'm not familiar with.

We would need a lot more info to help. What type of grass is your lawn? What type of soil? What type of fertilizer are you using? How much and when? How tall are you mowing? How much are you watering and when?

Insect problems are hard to diagnose from pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
LOL, Sorry. Looks like your lawn has come a long ways!!! Congrats. The pics with stuff circled doesn't show any problems I can see.
Those are the thin/weak areas. Its hard to see because I mow at 3 1/2 inches, but if you rake your fingers through the grass there are alot of bare areas. and the grass is not "rooted" well. Not sure how to describe in words but you can pull the grass up with almost zero resistance. I know its hard to diagnose without actually seeing for yourself I'm basicaslly just looking for things that may cause this. I then have something to go on.

We would need a lot more info to help. What type of grass is your lawn? What type of soil? What type of fertilizer are you using? How much and when? How tall are you mowing? How much are you watering and when?
The lawn is Fescue. The soil is **** aka: clay. I am using a 16-16-16 fertilizer as recommended by the contractor, he said to fertilize 4 weeks ago and wants me to do it again now(I don't think its right so I havnt planned on it)and I've been mowing at 3 1/2 inches and he said to mow it shorter that its yellowing because it doesnt get sun at the base of the blade? He also says to water 5 min a day at around 8pm. I dont plan on doing that either since I cant find anything to support his theory. Everything I've read says you should water in the early morning deep and infrequent, mow high, and fertilize no more than 4 times a year( he's told me to fertize at least 4 times in the last 5 months). I am still playing with the water especially since I just got the soil to where it will absorb some water.

Basically I am so confused I don't know what to do. As of know my plan is to throw out some seed next month and try to "thicken" up those weak spots, hoping that will help correct the "weed"(btw I think its Bermuda Grass, can anyone confirm?)problem.

My major fear is grubs. Is there any way I can know for sure I do or do not have them?

Thanks mngrassguy for taking the time. I appreciate any advice/suggestions.
 

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Might have been grubs, but they are long gone now. You might want to try a general pesticide to see if it holds at bay.

My assumption is that some of the weaker grass just died away when it got dry. Try deap soaking the lawn 2 times a week to promote root growth deeper into the ground where they can can reach the nutrients in the ground and stay cooler and damper.

Short roots will dry out and die which can look like an infestation problem especially in sodded lawns.

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Try deap soaking the lawn 2 times a week to promote root growth deeper into the ground where they can can reach the nutrients in the ground and stay cooler and damper.

Short roots will dry out and die which can look like an infestation problem especially in sodded lawns.

Cap
Thanks for your reply. I have a root waterer similar to this one....should i soak from underneath or from the top?
 

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If you have alot of clay in the top soil, it will create a barrier and overflow to the top like an overfilled bottle.

I would soak from the top in this case. Just my opinion.

Cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks Cap.

I picked up the seed yesterday. They said, "Use a low N fertilizer." Then went on about how it will grow too fast and not have a good root system Then the light bulb came on. Maybe my yard is overfertilized? Would that cause the grass to pull up so easy? How do you guys know what the right amout of N,P,K are? If anyone knows of some good reading, (that I could understand lol ) I'd appreciate it.
 

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Call your nursery and see if they will do a soil sample. The level of acceptable N,P, and K are pretty wide< but the again, if the root isn't deep enough, it won't last....period.

You certainly don't want to fertilize until the new grass has been cut 2-3 times. seeding fertilizers with low N may help, but not as much as old fashioned sunshine ans water. Keep it simple, the more you do at one time, the less you can understand what really worked.

Cap
 
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