This, to me at least, seems to fall into the 'dangerous' category...

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by rawx2, Mar 21, 2005.

  1. rawx2

    rawx2 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 14

    [​IMG] Pete's Grease Rack

    Do any of you guys have any other unique methods of changing the blades, cleaning the deck, changing filters, etc?
  2. Norm Al

    Norm Al LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,227

    if you flip the mower on its back its a lot easier!
  3. rawx2

    rawx2 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 14

    this Pete character hasn't updated his site since '03... I think I may know what happened to him.
  4. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 21,653

    Depends on your mower, I guess. Mine has the engine in the rear and I use an airtool to pop off the nuts from the 3 blade spindle bolts, then I lift the front of the mower with 1 hand while I grab the 3 blades with the other hand out from underneath as they neatly drop down. The front of the mower is maybe 20 pounds to lift, just make sure the fuel-tank is lower than 3/4 tank.
    To sharpen and balance, I use a hand-held circular grinder because the savings in time is worth the trade-off. Since this isn't the best sharpening method (but it takes forever to do it by hand), I sharpen them every day except when the mower has not been used. Then I put them on the balancing device as a blade that is out of balance results in a loss of rpm.
    This is unfortunately static but it costs an arm and a leg to have 3 blades balanced dynamically (by a shop) every day, so static balance it is. If I pay attention when sharpening, most the time the blades stay balanced unless I hit a rock or a water-meter.
    To put them back on, I prop the front on my knee while I hand-thread the blade spindles a few turns and re-tighten with the air-tool (always use the lowest torque setting and don't let the airgun pop-pop-pop or it's too tight, which can damage the bearings). Usually I am done in 15 minutes.
    Far as cleaning the deck, I do that after every yard with the blower and at the end of the day, I use compressed air. What really helps is from time to time I take 5 or 10 dollars worth of quarters with the beasts to the local carwash, using the engine-cleaner and then hi-pressure rinse to powerwash the mowers, gets the dirt and grease off real nice, thou it does tend to strip a few flakes of paint such as where the mower might've become damaged or weathered.

    For an oil-change, I lift the mower sideways with both hands while I slide a Jack-stand under it with my foot, but when I'm not in the mood for that (the side is really heavy), I use the hydraulic jack. Another neat way is to drive the mower onto the lowered 6x12 trailer-ramp sideways with the oil-plug facing down, lock the brakes and place the catch pan underneath the ramp. Only thing is the spaces in the grid are close together so the stream of oil tends to splatter a little and you always make a small mess thou most of it eventually flows in the pan. This one is such a pain I do this once a year. For this I run synthetic because the oil doesn't turn black and if the mower is low on oil (like when I forget to check) I can run it without fear of engine seizure, same as might be the case on a steep hill where the engine might seize due to oil starvation. Unfortunately with the Kohler, I've gotten used to the tick-tick-tick dieseling of self-adjusting valves so this is not a good indicator of low oil for me... Hence, synthetic (or at least blend). To keep things simple, I run 10w-40 in everything, and Big Lots recently had a sale on Pennzoil Synthetic Blend for 1.97 a quart.

    Far as filters, for the light stuff I keep one spare each in the truckbox and change it when it needs it, usually in the field. For the mowers I have 6 to 8 filters with pre-cleaners oiled and ready to go in the truckbox and replace these every 5-6 yards depending on conditions (dust, pollen, etc), sometimes I can go 10-12 yards without replacement, then usually I replace those right then and there as well. Soon as I have enough dirty pre-cleaners, I take those home and throw them in the wash-machine but let them air-dry (the dryer ruins foam pre-cleaners), then next day I re-oil them and take them back to the truck to slip over the respective filters. Of interest to note is since I run synthetic and Amoco 93-octane, the air drawn through oiled pre-cleaners combined with the by-now sweet smell of combustion permeats lightly into my clothes which stays with me beyond the wash machine, and some women are apparently attracted by this (but only after the clothes have been washed, not after a day's work). On the downside, so are some men, and in both cases they can be single or married.

  5. monsteryards

    monsteryards LawnSite Member
    Messages: 8

    you need commercial mowers
  6. monsteryards

    monsteryards LawnSite Member
    Messages: 8

    put a 350c.i. motor on it
  7. rawx2

    rawx2 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 14

    LMAO! I'll keep that in mind.

    Thanks for the informative reply as well, being a newbie I need all the help I can get.

    If that was directed towards me, that picture is something I found on google, some guy named Pete trying to sell those 'grease rack' plans. If that wasn't directed towards me, please disregard the reply :).
  8. naturescaretaker

    naturescaretaker LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 854

    Goes along with this idiot....

    Tractor on car.jpg
  9. SodKing

    SodKing LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,641

    I love that pic..
  10. gslawncare

    gslawncare LawnSite Member
    Messages: 134

    I use the ramps and the tailgate of my truck. turn the mower off in the bed of the truck then ease it down the ramps half way. lock the brakes and put the handles down to the ramps. the deck should now be verticle. use cinder blocks to hold the front up like the other guy said to. I was actually thinking of making one of those elevated benches. I wish I had a garage!!!!!

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